Plants bumping into each other

Started by shaolin101, July 01, 2005, 10:43:11

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shaolin101

My tomatoes are about 2 foot high now and are in growbags (one on top of the other).

As i have not taken off anything that has grown from the main stem they are starting to overlap.

Dont really have the option to move them.

Will it do any damage to leave them to it, or should i take a pair of scissors and just hack bits away?!
Keep getting worried that the stuff I grow will taste nasty - or turn out poisonous!

shaolin101

Keep getting worried that the stuff I grow will taste nasty - or turn out poisonous!

john_miller

Ideally you should take off everything except the leaves coming off the main stem and the fruit trusses. This will increase the yield and reduce pest and disease infestations. A sharp knife will work better than scissors.

tim


shaolin101

They were long bags that had 3 circles already drawn so put three in there.

Am convinced if i cut them i will cut off the only bits that could have tomatoes on them!

There are quite a few flowers - should i leave anything they are attached to?
Keep getting worried that the stuff I grow will taste nasty - or turn out poisonous!

john_miller

Standard cordon training involves pruning everything except one central stem. If your plants are overgrown, with multiple stems, then you should select one stem only and prune all the other stems out. Yes, this will involve removing flowers but it will result in fewer, larger fruit rather than lots of small fruit.

tim

I know I've said it before but, right or wrong, I believe that the 3 to a bag idea is a commercial 'come-on'.
Plants need air & light. Like - ideally - 18" between.

Here's a poor guide - take out anything that occurs at the red marks. Then 'stop' the plant when, indoors, it reaches the wire - or 7 trusses.


This is 'Galina' - a very elongated variety.

shaolin101

Thanks for this - will get cutting tonight.

Do i cut them off right at the join of the 2 stems - or leave a little bit atached to the main stem?

At least i know for future not to follow the bags guidlines!
Keep getting worried that the stuff I grow will taste nasty - or turn out poisonous!

john_miller

As low down as you can. Any stump may become infected and rot back into the plant. You may want to snap the stems off rather than cut them. There is a natural tissue break (abcission layer) between the two which, when bent properly, will simply snap. I would also suggest pruning in the morning to give the best chance of the cut/break drying out before a fungus (Botrytis cineria/grey mould in particular) can infect the damaged tissue.

philcooper

Tim,

You're giving out simple advice that people can follow again - where will all the mystery be if you carry on like this???  ;)

Phil

PS mine are 2' apart in the greenhose and still finsh up shading each other!

shaolin101

Thanks again and sorry to be a pain but...

Just to clarify - i leave the ones coming off the stem straight out to the side - creating a right angle. And break off the ones growing out of that corner created and coming upwards at a 45 degree angle.
Keep getting worried that the stuff I grow will taste nasty - or turn out poisonous!

john_miller


Mrs Ava

I have Galina also Tim.  Strong plants!  And different leaves, much broader.


Shaolin, in my greenhouse, every rule is broken I'm afraid as I have crammed so much in, it is a jungle!  Tomorrow I shall have to go a'trimming!

carloso

me to EJ

i have all sorts together  ferline - yellow pear - Big boy F1 and they are all mates together ! in pots and on sand i water the sand and not the plant itself they seem to be doing well a little late i admit (due to weather i might add)  well it was WEATHER i got my back side into gear lolol

ok ok serious for the min no problems so far but the fella next door to my allotment reckons when they all come i could solve Bob Geldoffs problems ! yes yes i over did the seed thing but theres plenty of people who have my little olde tommy plants

carl
another member of i forgot my password

Mrs Ava

It is curious, the tom plants on my plottie are doing much better than the tom plants in my greenhouse!  Altho the ones in my greenhouse are covered in lovely little fruits now, the ones on the allotment are stockier stronger plants, and they really are weighed down with fruit, and already my Hungarian Giants fruit are about the size of my fist!

john_miller

The optimum temperature for tomatoes, EJ, is roughly 18C. As temperatures close in on 35C growth will slow down and eventually stop.  Given the weather you have been having so far this year I think your plants are displaying this reaction. It also sounds as if you have some etiolation in your greenhouse.

Mrs Ava

Only some etoliation in the greenhouse John.  I think MASSES of etoliation in the greenhouse, but then it all adds to the adventure of gardening..... ::) ;D

john_miller


philcooper

Quote from: EJ - Emma Jane on July 09, 2005, 12:30:24
.....I think MASSES of etoliation in the greenhouse, but then it all adds to the adventure of gardening..... ::) ;D

EJ, are you suggesting that we add etoliation (in the greenhouse) to the list of elements involved in extreme allotmenteering?   ;)

Phil

Mrs Ava

Only if wearing a harness and safety goggles Phil.  ;D

Debs


As usual I have an abundance of tomato plants, some of

which have sat around in 3" pots (apologies to all tomato

fans  :-\). I have no more room in the greenhouse, so shall

plant the excess in my south facing lottie.

Debs

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