Which aubergine varieties will you growing in 2010 and why.

Started by plainleaf2, October 23, 2009, 17:11:24

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plainleaf2

Which  aubergine varieties will you growing in 2010 and why.
Will you be growing a none purple variety if so what colour or colours.

plainleaf2


Flighty

Flighty's plot,  http://flightplot.wordpress.com,  is my blog.

I support the Gardening with Disabilities Trust, http://www.gardeningwithdisabilitiestrust.org.uk

grawrc

I'm growing violetta di Firenze because someone gave me seeds. I've never grown aubergines successfully before (got fruit but ran out of time for it to ripen) so I'd welcome any advice you've got!

realfood

It really depends where you are in the UK, as in the North you will need a quick maturing variety.
For a quick guide for the Growing, Storing and Cooking of your own Fruit and Vegetables, go to www.growyourown.info

angle shades

 :) Rosa Bianca again because I have no success with any other variety/ shades x
grow your own way

Chrispy

If there's nothing wrong with me, maybe there's something wrong with the universe!

lushy86

I love them and am going to have a go at growing them next year, can anyone suggest a good one to try for starters?

Lushy x
Make mine a large one!

grawrc

Quote from: realfood on October 23, 2009, 19:32:55
It really depends where you are in the UK, as in the North you will need a quick maturing variety.
Sort of east of Glasgow! ;)

Flighty

Flighty's plot,  http://flightplot.wordpress.com,  is my blog.

I support the Gardening with Disabilities Trust, http://www.gardeningwithdisabilitiestrust.org.uk

Digeroo

I have grown Calliope this year and the fruits are so attractive and it has produced quite a good number outside.  But they are rather small when it come to eating them, they are only the size of eggs.  Great if you are using a receipe which calls for 'and  a small aubergine'.

realfood

Grawrc, did you grow them in a greenhouse? Because of the shorter season in the North, I find that they need the added protection and heat. It also helps if you grow a quick maturing variety.
This is taken from my website:-Apple Green. This is a small variety, about the size of a goose egg, but it is extremely early, some 4 weeks before standard varieties. Allow 75 days from transplanting.
For a quick guide for the Growing, Storing and Cooking of your own Fruit and Vegetables, go to www.growyourown.info

saddad

We have Caliope, amongst others... literaly picked a carrier bag full of "egg" sized aubergines last week.. and they are still producing.. never know a year like ti...  8)

1066

Long Purple - courtesy of a seed swap on here   ;D  8)

grawrc

Quote from: realfood on October 25, 2009, 23:03:04
Grawrc, did you grow them in a greenhouse? Because of the shorter season in the North, I find that they need the added protection and heat. It also helps if you grow a quick maturing variety.
This is taken from my website:-Apple Green. This is a small variety, about the size of a goose egg, but it is extremely early, some 4 weeks before standard varieties. Allow 75 days from transplanting.
No I didn't but I shall do this year. Thanks for the advice. :)

Vinlander

I had a total crop failure in 2008 but generally I find I do better with the smaller fruited kinds - more flowers = more chances and even a tiny stunted plant can manage one or two.

My favourite is 'slim jim' because the plants are almost black - true edible ornamental gardening and will grow well on a sunny patio in the S of England in an average year. Never had much luck saving seed unfortunately.

I've found the African ones are a bit more hardy (paradoxically) and vigorous if a bit boring looking but I have trouble deciding when to pick them - they don't change colour or size - or at least the Eden ones don't.

Apparently they are also flood tolerant - I read farmers in Africa use them as a rootstock for tomatoes so they can survive surprise rainstorms.

Cheers
With a microholding you always get too much or bugger-all. (I'm fed up calling it an allotment garden - it just encourages the tidy-police).

The simple/complex split is more & more important: Simple fertilisers Poor, complex ones Good. Simple (old) poisons predictable, others (new) the opposite.

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