Allotments 4 All

Of the new plot in preparation for next year?

I've sorted what needs to be planted when am trying to read up on crop rotation and am just getting my head around it but design was never my thing.

Wondering if there's any such web site that will help me do the layout?

oh and if certain crops like partial shade/shade on a plot which has no shading so i have to create some?

Oh and one more thing, noticed someone mentioned making compost bins from pallets? how do i do this?

I don't think you need software to design your plot, just a few basic principles in your head is enough, and do the designing on the spot.  Keep records though of what grew where.

A 4-year rotation cycle is better for reducing the risk of disease than a 3-year one. Which ever you choose, you must split the area into 4 or 3 equal sized zones, otherwise you re-start the cycle sooner than intended.

I use a 4 year cycle. The main crop groups are roots (incl. potatoe), onions (incl. leeks), pods (peas and beans) then cabbge types (incl. radishes, swedes and turnips).

I use "no-dig" beds 1.2 m wide with permanent paths between. This avoids compacting the soil by walking on it, and allows me to "target" the growing area making better use of valuable compost and  manure. I don't want compost on my paths  ;D. My beds are aligned north / south so that they get equal sun on both sides. The idea is to sow closer than in a traditional bed, and weed by hand rather than leaving space for a hoe. This concentrated planting compensates for the space allocated to paths, so you get the same sized harvest in the end with less digging and healthier soil. I prefer hand weeding anyway, I can pull up the roots. Mulching greatly reduces the need to weed,and helps preserve soil moisture.

I only give shade to lettuces. Put a few long twigs in the ground and hang straw or seaweed on them. It gives fine dappled shade. Don't bother sowing spinach between May and August, no amount of shade helps.

But you will need shade for your seedlings before you plant them out, and preferably somewhere that the blackbirds cannot dig them up. Try a removeable net cage with straw or seaweed on the top for dappled shade.

Go for the compost! A compost bin is simply a 3-sided box to help the plant waste pile up rather than spread out. You want the compost heap as big as possible. There are cold heaps and hot heaps (see http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/composting/compost_pf.php). I only have hot heaps that take up to 6 weeks but which ever you choose, it is essential to cover the heap with a sheet of plastic to prevent it getting too wet and soggy. Wet compost is a disaster.

On the RHS Growing Veg site there is list on crop rotation which OH has printed of for me. It also shows things that can go anywhere. Also if you go to the Garden World Discussions site, scroll down to the home grown greengrocer thread, there is a thread on expected yields per metre row & underneath that one there is seed sowing chart, Tuckers seeds, that you can print of.  When once you've sorted out you paths & beds it will fall into place. We only have a 1/2 plot& we have 3 beds 5'x18' & 1 8'x18 + a large fruit bed 22'x18. We've used scaffold boards between the fruit to make it easier for picking. The paths between the other beds are permanent & about 18" wide.

Hello , I bought this:

http://www.softpedia.com/get/Others/Home-Education/Garden-Planner.shtml

There is a fre 15 day trial that you could use for free, you inout the size of your plot and then drag and drop whatever it is you are planting there, its a nice piece of software and dead easy to use :)

Hi,
KtLawson gave me a plan to assist with the plot and I am sure that will help you in getting started too.

excellent thanks people off tonight to take some measurements!

This might give you some ideas; http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Planning/Planning.htm

Well I have tried some of those computer software programmes and to be straight I think they are all a waste of time. The easiest method I have found is a piece of graph paper, a 12 inch rule, a pencil and a rubber. Draw out a plan of your plot to scale and off you go. I use a 6 year rotation plan

All sounds very organised to me.  My plot sort of evolved.  Had a plan in my head but the soil did not conform.  There was only one area where the soil was suitable for growing carrots, and the tomatoes ended up where I originally planned the runner beans because I could not single dig that area let alone double. 

Wasn't going to plant sweet corn but decided to give it a go,  so had to put it where there was a space. 

Three sister beds really cause me an issue becuase you grow three plant types together so there is not much left for the rotation.  Also my plot is NE to SW.  One guy has even planted his potates diagonally.   

What's a plan.   ???     :-\     ;D ;D ;D

Quote from: cornykev on July 12, 2009, 09:33:39
What's a plan.   ???     :-\     ;D ;D ;D

Dig it plant it eat it works for me  ;)

A plan is what you intend to do but never happens.

Quote from: tomatoada on July 12, 2009, 09:49:17
A plan is what you intend to do but never happens.

too true  ;D  ;D  ;D

Quote from: Le-y on July 11, 2009, 07:00:08
Of the new plot in preparation for next year?
web site that will help me do the layout?

I will  PM you later with a diagram and spreadsheets that should help.

Thank you very much to everyone especially ktlawson :)

I have stuck rigidly to my plan but then it is just a basic four year rotation and my allotment is split into four areas.

I think the plants have more sense than spreadsheets, if you listen to them and see where they like to grow, they will soon tell you. Put a plant in the wrong place and it dies, but good luck to you with spread sheets, I hate them, had enough of that at work. Not trying to be funny but reccomend is spelt recommend, 'my spelling is woobly, it's good spelling but it wobbles and the letters get in the wrong places.'  from Pooh bear.  I just love that as I only got 1 out of 20 at school for sepelling, have improved over the years.  Have your plan by all means, but don't be surprised if it all changes over the years.

New plot holders who start off with a plan of where everything is going to go.

We never say anything to them but we know which plot is going to come up for re-letting within the first year.

It is a case of where the first area is cleared, large enough to take the next load of planting  a lot of the time because a plot can be used for food 12 months of the year. I am disappointed if I do not get two crops a year from areas not  occupied by non perpetual plants.

The asparagus rhubarb strawberries and fruit bushes (and they have been moved around at times) stay in place. Other than avoiding planting crops in the same bed as last year. They go where the fit.

My reason/s for having a plan (which I invariably don't stick to  ;) ) is;

My short term memory is virtually non existant and what with having two plots, loads of stuff to grow and not forgetting rotation, I just have to make a plan.

OK as the season goes on and I am chopping and changing the planting layout for what ever reason, I always have the gist of a plan that generally fits in with the initial plan.

As I see it;  it is all down to 'old age'

So anything that is a memory aide is OK by me, having said that; flexibility is the key in my book!

I was worried I didn't have a plan, I've just been digging and planting and hoping for the best this first year - I will, of course have everything planned and perfect for next year...definately...... no doubt about it ...... honest! ;D ;D

Lushy x