Allotments 4 All

Well seeing how much the weeds have grown over the last week, we are definitely going to need to spray to gain control. But how should we spray it? Watering can or pressure sprayer?

Pressure spray, you could spray the whole allotment with 5 lts from a spray, with a watering can you could do about two widths each  about a metre wide wasting more than you need to.

If you are close to cultivated plots I think a watering can is best as this prevents drift (unless it is blowing a gale) ::)

how quickly can you sow after you spary, just curious?

Pick a non windy day and spray.

Virtually immediately, I would leave it a day or so though myself.

You need to leave the weeds for about two weeks after spraying for it to work - so by the time the area is dug and prepped it is probably 2.5 - 3 weeks.

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking along the same lines as most - spray being quicker and easier, but watering can pos best if windy etc. Luckily we're in a corner and our side neighbour plot is in a far worse state than ours, obviously I would still do my best to avoid spraying it! The neighbouring plot at the end is also quite a weedy one, but is tended, but this end is very sheltered, so should be easy enough.

After I've sprayed I'm going to cover with black plastic to keep it clear until we get round to digging it. How long should I leave it before I cover it? Would I be better off spraying it twice before covering? Think I read spomewhere to do this!!!!

Angelah

Leave the black plastic off until the weeds have died - they need to photosynthesis for the Glyo to work.

If you are covering with black plastic, why not just strim back then cover - lack of light will have the same effect.

Mmmm, strimming, always hated strimmers, but thought I'd have a go, unfortunately I broke my thumb last year, it took nearly all year to heal, but I thought it was ok, until I tried a friends petrol strimmer........ 20 minutes later and it felt as though I was back at square one, so am admitting defeat and going down the chemical route so we can definitely get our lottie under control and producing stuff this year.

Quote from: SMP1704 on April 28, 2008, 20:51:56
You need to leave the weeds for about two weeks after spraying for it to work - so by the time the area is dug and prepped it is probably 2.5 - 3 weeks.

The above is true but It is safe to sow immediately :)

cool thanks people ;)

Hi,

On a similar note - I've tried using Roundup but I'm not having much joy. I used a watering can first - weeds still there after 3 weeks, so then tried with a pressue sprayer (a week ago) but the weeds just turned yellow and then grew new leaves!

Am I doing something wrong or does it normally take  few goes? - I used the correct mixture - in fact I even added an extra cap full 'for the pot'!

The weeds are virtually all nettles - both stinging and thorny - they just won't die d**n them! - may have to move onto a flame thrower?!

cheers
Sheddie

Get your hoes out. :P

It may be different there, but here we can use Roundup on fairly tender weeds but must use a stronger chemical on heavier woody weeds/vines.

I find the best tool for removing nettles is a digging hoe; they're very shallow-rooted and I can get right under them and pull the whole lot out. It chops the biggest roots apart easily as well. Once they're out, they're out, and it's just a case of getting the seedlings. Alternatively, use black plastic.

Don't be tempted to add more weedkiller than the instructiosn recommend. They are there for a reason.
The best time to spray is early in teh day on a warm still day, if you can find one of those let me know.
Pressure sprays are better than watering cans for reasons already stated.
You will need to leave the plants for a while to let the glyphosphate work. For the tuff ones another application about 10 days later can be very benificial. Give it chance to work its way all the way down to the roots. That way if some root breaks off or is chopped up it won't be able to grow.
Covering with black plastic can have the same effect but it takes a lot longer.
Hope this helps,
Woppa

Also if it rains shortly after the application you'll need to do it again.

Hi guys,

Thanks for the help - but they're way beyond a hoe unfortunately. I've only had the plot 4 months and it hadn't been touched in 6 years priort to me getting it. Its a fair size (400 sq metres) and is seperated into 4 main beds. I've got one cleared through digging and more digging, but just trying to keep the other 3 under control until I can dig them too.

I just seem to be fighting the weeds back rather than killing them!

Hopefully I can at least get another 1 (or better still 2) beds cleared this year, so I'd like to get the plastic down. Haven't found any cheap plastic yet though - tarpaulin seems the cheapest, but am worried it would let light through. Looks like I'll just have to fork out the dough! (trying to do everything as cheap as I can in true lottie stlye spirit!)

thanks again
Sheddie ;D

Cardboard can help to kill the weeds off too over the long term. If you can get hold of boxes used for large electrical items and open them out and lay them down they block out a lot of light and also the remains can be composted afterwards. I find heavy duty black woven porous plastic groundcover is best, like this from Kays: http://www.kaysdiscountgarden.co.uk/cgi-bin/site-editor.pl/14/-ecommerce?action=item;item=PGC2X100;eid=556273

Sprayers for glyphosate mixes are a good idea but be aware there are different spray types. Fine misters are designed for different purposes and really you need a coarse to large droplet size to apply weedkiller with. Another point is the mix for dilution - if you read the label, it will tell you to use different concentrations when you are applying with a sprayer than when you are applying with a can. This is because the method of application affects the distribution of the chemical - the label tells you to use a higher concentration in a sprayer because you don't need so much water to apply the chemical.