Allotments 4 All

I grew some tomatoes in growbags at home last year and despite the onset of blight in almost all the plants they cropped well enough. This year, with a whole allotment to play with, I was thinking of growing some in the ground (rather than a growbag) around the edge of the plot using the chicken wire fence for support.

But I was wondering, how will they do planted directly into the ground? Or should I still use growbags with holes in the bottom so the roots can grow into the soil?

I know when planted in growbags they need daily watering, I'm assuming if they're planted in the ground their roots can hunt around for moisture better so may not need a much watering, thus saving me from a daily watering trip... Does that sound plausible?

I know is a bit early to be worrying about tomatoes but I've just had the idea so thought I'd ask...

:)

Good question and one I'm wanting to find out about too because I want to do the same this year.

As  far as I'm concerned there is no problem with planting them directly in the soil, the growbag is purely a convenient container to grow them in. They probably will get water better being directly in the ground, it obviously depends on how much of a summer we get this year though! If it is really, really hot I reckon they would need regular watering.

Someone else will be along soon to say the complete opposite, this is just my theory!  ;D

what I also was going to say was that when we were in Greece last year there was a small field behind one of the village restaurants where they had planted rows of toms directly in the soil with cane supports like you do with runner beans, it was pretty d**n hot there and they looked like they were ok.

In my experience if you put them straight in the ground then beyond the initial bedding in period (first few days if dry, no need at all if wet), they won't need watering at all.

Whether they'll do owt outside is another question altogether............


Oh, if you do decide to grow them outside, plant them deep.

QuoteSomeone else will be along soon to say the complete opposite, this is just my theory!

On the contrary!! looks like between you, you have answered the question.

It will all come back to the type of summer we have and the varieties you sow (some are more suited to outdoor growing than others)

As far as Greece is concerned then there is no comparison

I have grown tomatoes for many years outside. When successful they are better than those in the tomato house. Tomatoes don't need much water, in fact the less you can get away with the better.  What you have to do is avoid suddenly watering heavily because you think they need it - a gentle, scarce watering is much preferred. But, you will need to protect them from the rain and don't plant them too close together because they need to dry out if they get wet.  So erect some form of simple roof and don't plant them anywhere near potatoes.

Thanks all, I'll go for it then!

I was thinking back to seeing Jamie Oliver with his millions of different types and colours of toms last year and thinking how cool it would be to grow a plant or two each of a load of different varieties and get that cross section of shapes, sizes and colours...

If I start them off at home in pots then plant them out using canes and the chicken wire fence for support it should create a nice tomato 'hedge' if they work... :)

Can anyone recommend some weird and wonderful varieties? I've got some 'normal' and cherry seeds already but nothing exciting interesting.... I should have joined a tomato seed swap! lol ;)

Why nowhere near potatoes Busby? How near is near?

Hiya,

Ive grown tomatos outside, and with the exception of last year (blight) they always seem to do well.
Firstly make sure you use well manured ground, but not fresh manure as this will just encorage leggy green growth - I'd prepare the ground now and leave it to settle.
Secondly you will need a warm, sunny site - against a south facing wall is ok, but make sure your at least 8inches away from the bottom so not in the rain shadow
Thirdly, choose a variety which will crop well outside - Moneymaker springs to mind, but its a little boring and standard
Fourthly, sow in early april, transfer to pots once large enough to handle, and after the first truss has set plant out - once all risk of frost has passed... normally about late May/Early June (when its a constant 15 degrees outside) and plant deeply removing all leaves below the first truss
Fifth - if you like sink a pop bottle in next to the plants to water direct to the roots...
Sixth.... pray for a warm SUNNY summer!!!!  8)

You might not get as many, or as large fruits as in a greenhouse... but  well worth a go anyway, and saves space in the greenhouse for cucumbers  ;D

Quote from: Cuke on February 18, 2008, 11:07:27
.... Why nowhere near potatoes Busby? How near is near?

it's because they are related and one can spread blight to the other.

I HAD to chuckle at growing tomatoes in a pot since we've always grown them right in the soil though lately I've used a low raised bed. Last year we had a bumper crop possibly due to two new-to-me inventions. As others have said, plant the stems deeply- they send out other roots, don't fertilize much or they produce mainly leaves.  The new inventions: wall-o-waters around them to keep them warm in the Spring and horror-of-horrors red plastic mulch. I'd read some ranchers claimed the red plastic increased their tom yield which sounded far-fetched but after googling it I found a university study which supported the idea that the light reflected to the plant from the red plastic increased a certain growth hormone (other vegies prefer other colors). So I did something very un-scientific and did NO control, just mulched all of them in red and used red wall-o-waters. A wonderful crop resulted.  The red plastic mulch reduced the amount of water needed.  Now last year for us in northern Delaware was a good growing year so I can't claim 100% it was the red plastic. This year might be totally different. ::)

Although blight will spread between the plants if your on an allotment the chance of being far enough away from a potato is pretty limited anyway.

Last year I planted mine at one end of the plot, with potatos at the other... was still only about 30 foot between them... then noticed 4 foot away were my neighbours potatos!  ;D ::)

that's very interesting GrannieAnnie. Here's an article
http://plasticulture.cas.psu.edu/RedMulch.htm.

here's another that says blue mulch is the best http://plasticulture.cas.psu.edu/CMulch-93.htm  ???

Yes, potatoes and tomatoes are of the same family so blight is easily spread from one to another. Another danger is smoking, - nicotine on the fingers is also a blight carrier.

For an amazing range of tomato seeds try Simpson's Seeds - google.

And, the past fews years I have planted my tomatoes into geranium earth from the garden centre, this seems to be to their advantage. I also use this earth for cucumber, zuchetti and peas with great success.

tobacco can spread Tobacco Mosaic Virus rather than blight. It can survive for hundreds of years under the right conditions

Is this a good moment to raise the aspirin question?

Toms have very strong root systems, and mine were fine in the drought two summers ago, while a Victoria plum right next to them died. The only problem was that once the rain came, a lot of the fruit split, and then they got blight. Early blight wiped them out in June last year. It's more of a gamble outside, and the season's shorter, with less choice of varieties. But the crops make it worthwhile, and it's easy to boil them down for pureee.