Advice needed for a cutting edge

[ina]

Our hoes couldn't cut through hot butter. So, we bought a stone (7.50 Euro) to sharpen it, worked 2 hours orso but not much result. Then we bought a file (9 Euro)  only to be told it was a bad idea to use it on a hoe. We spent almost enough to buy a new hoe.

Can anybody tell us how to sharpen neglected hoes please?

[ina]

[gavin]

Hi Ina - I have a scythe sharpening stone which works well on other tools.  It's a cigar-shaped "lump" of carborundum (? - some sort of rough sharpening stone).

All best - Gavin

[derbex]

Being ignorant I used a file, it worked fine. The only problem I could see with this is if you had some special edge or tip on the hoe. I have also just got a scythe stone though, mainly because I can leave it on the allotment without worrying about it rusting.

Failing that you could buy an angle-grinder, shouldn't cost more than twice the price of a hoe, or club the weeds to death :)

Once you have it sharp, if you haven't too many stones, it should stay sharp with regular hoeing.

Jeremy

[ptennisnet]

I have a huge supply of sandpaper from when I worked at a sandpaper factory.  I used this on our cheapy hoes and it took hours and hours.  I then bought a cheapy file and this works well on both the sickle and hoes, in a fraction of the time of the sandpaper.  I want to get a stone though as I think this will be better at maintaining the edge.
My worry with the file is that it may be removing a lot of material with each stroke.
And I hadn't thought about the rust free nature of leaving them outside.  Another excuse to buy one ;D

[ina]

Thanks everybody for the speedy replies.
So, we'll file the neglected hoes and keep them sharp with the sharpening stone regularly. Looks like we didn't waste our money after all.

[tim]

1. Depends on the file. Many wouldn't file butter. And many are not 'metal' files. If you really want the tops, try a diamond pad.

2..Much prefer a flat carborundum - the round stones were, I reckon, designed more for 'butcher type' honing of (curved bladed) scythes. If used like a file - ie towards the edge - they can give a fluted effect.

3. If your ground is V stony, don't try for too tapered an edge - it won't last as long.

4. You should get a good edge in 30 secs. Re-did a couple of mine yesterday. = Tim

[ina]

The stone we bought is flat and rectangular, one side thicker than the other and the thicker side is rounded. I guess so it can be used for either curved implements (the round side) and flat things like hoes with the flat side.

One hoe is filed now and it makes a world of difference. Kept the angle it had on the edge, not a very long angled part, maybe half a cm. I just hope we can keep it sharp with 30 second stone treatments.

Thanks for the advice Tim.

[kenkew]

I rescued a couple of hoes which had been left on my new plot by the last bloke. I brought them home and restored the edge on a grinding wheel. Now I just rub them on the smooth flat stone path after every use.

[ptennisnet]

Please could you clarify for me which way to file/use the stone.  I think I'm doing it wrong as I've been filing away from the back edge towards the cutting edge.

The reason it took me hours with the sandpaper is that our hoes had no edge on them at all.  They were the extra cheap models where they round edge and leave it as thick as the rest of the hoe.  

[tim]

Right or wrong, I sharpen as I would a chisel or knife - ie pushing the cutting edge away from me on the stone. So, with a sharpening 'tool', I rub it from edge to back. With a scythe or sickle, I 'sweep' from stock to tip on both sides.

If you go from back to tip in a hoe, you can easily be pushed into too great an angle by the reinforced back.Too many folk try for an instant result with a 'steep' edge, rather than refining the thickness back toward the stock.  Like sharpening a pencil for a long-lasting point. Or so I believe!!

Sandpaper? Some grades won't even mark wood! Even emery paper would wear out before the blade?

Edge grinder? Indeed - if the thing has never been sharpened. But you can get carried away a bit!

Hope you all give your spades the same treatment?? = Tim

[ina]

Ah yes, the spades, good thinking Tim, thanks.

[tim]

Ah, yes! But another APOLOGY. Tried to do it last night, but your (Ina) message got stuck in the gears, & access was barred!

Had a fixation about old-fashioned 'glasspaper' & the like - OF COURSE modern abrasive paper will work - especially if, as we do, you glue it to a suitably shaped support.  But, obviously, it 's life is shorter than a stone or file. = Tim

[ptennisnet]

Filed the hoes in the direction suggested by Tim and I reckon that the edge lasted longer.

As for the sand paper, I have a range from P40 to P1200 (rocks to dust sized grains).  I used to test fibre discs and would grind kilogrammes of mild steel with each disc!  

Back OT.  I think a stone is the best solution.

Spades - I wouldn't have thought of giving them an edge.  Thanks.