fruit trees

[celestial]

hi there can anyone recomend a type of fruit tree that i can grow without having to wait years and years for it to bear any fruit. i bought a pear tree (bare root) earlier on this year not sure when i will get fruit from it. it has already got a bit of foliage on the bottom. im hoping it will look bit more like a tree next year lol.

[celestial]

[goodlife]

There is not a special 'type' or variety of fruit trees as such..BUT...if you buy from 'proper' fruit tree nursery, they state different rootstocks that the trees are crafted on. These rootstocks determine how quickly the tree mature and start producing fruit as well as the maximum size they are able to grow.
Yes..they cost bit more money than shop/DIY store cheap trees but you do get better quality and should end up with 'for what you are paying for' type of trees...variety selection from fruit tree nurseries is HUGE and the 'world is your oyster' when starting the selection process
M26 rootstock  that is commonly available and keep the tree quite small side will usually mature apple/pear to fruit first few fruits within 3/4 years. Some trees may try to yield earlier than that, but it is good practice to sacrifice the early fruiting attempts for trees healthy growth instead. It is not all about the above the soil growth...but it is very important that the tree establish good root system before the canopy start growing.
There is no rushing with good stuff...

[Digeroo]

A tree is a tree and they take time to get going.   If you want something quick I would suggest a courgette.    Jeannine has a recipe for apple pie made with courgette (zucchini) instead.

If you buy one in a pot it will be much more expensive and fruit sooner, but in the long run the bare rooted ones tend to catch them up and over take.

My Lidl ones were very cheap and have been quite quick but rarely are the variety on the label though I am very pleased with what I have got, (though I do not know what I have got).   All are nice to eat.

Sorry Celestial but I think you will have to be patient.   We are talking about 2-3 years.   But 25 years later they are still at it.   

You need to go to an apple day to taste some apples to see which you like.   

My favourite trees are golden Delicious and Discovery.

[celestial]

thanks for the quick replies guys this site is fantastic. i guess i will have to just be patient seen as i dont like courgettes lol. hopefully only couple more years then for my pear tree. ive heard that some fruits need a couple planted to get fruit from them is there an apple variety where i dont needto do this.

[goodlife]

There is self-pollinating varieties of apples and pears...BUT...even those can sometimes be shy croppers and will benefit having suitable pollination partner nearby...that means the other same kind of fruit will flower same/similar time. Apples and pears are usually marked with their pollination group marker...meaning it is easier to select suitable 'partner',as all from 'group A (or some mark it no1) will flower similar time.
There is many on-line fruit nurseries... just to give you some idea here is link to one of my favourite nurseries.. http://www.deaconsnurseryfruits.co.uk/
If you have a look there..there is tons of good info that will help you to learn about fruit trees and maybe you find something that interest you.

[ACE]

i bought a pear tree (bare root) earlier on this year not sure when i will get fruit from it.

Never, unless there is another pear tree nearby.

[brown thumb]

Going off topic but when it the best time to prune three year old eating apple and cherry trees, which never had a proper prune and how to do it please

[goodlife]

Going off topic but when it the best time to prune three year old eating apple and cherry trees, which never had a proper prune and how to do it please

Ok..apple..it should not need massive amount of pruning as it is so young and it depends what shape you are trying to achieve (if any)..at this stage you would only need to trim back the new growth. You should see the straight new growth that has shooted up and the bark has lighter shade than the previous years growth. Usually you cut back this growth in late summer to early autumn...and aim to reduce it back by  2/3....if you do this all over the tree you end up with quite bushy shape tree. Winter pruning is done if you need to renovate (older) apple trees by doing some major cut backs into old wood.
Cherries...any fruit trees with stone fruits are pruned during active growing season (late spring onwards)..so too late for this year ...cherries should not need much pruning at all but if you need to bush it up..pinch back in summer all that soft new growth to allow more new branches. Cherries particularly doesn't like much pruning and are happiest with only most gentlest 'treatment' or as little as possible.
This was just a quicky answer and others may want to go deeper into pruning advise....

[Melbourne12]

Of our recent plantings, Fiesta has been fastest to bear fruit, and is a delicious apple as well.  If you can afford two-year-old plants, they'll be even faster to fruit.  Plant this autumn, and you should get an appreciable crop in 2015.  You might even get a few next year.

http://www.blackmoor.co.uk/products/228#.UlPw2RDfLUA

[Russell]

I deduce from the word tree that you are only interested in top fruit i.e. apple, pears, cherries, plums etc. Almost all top fruit bears on three year old wood, you should anticipate two blank years after planting.
If early crop is your priority, soft fruit such as raspberries or other cane fruit will produce the second summer after planting. Autumn fruiting raspberries produce the autumn after planting, a year sooner.
If you are determined on top fruit e.g. apple and you are only proposing to plant one tree, may I suggest you think carefully about reliability. With only one tree it is more than just nice if your chosen variety produces  year after year regardless of the worst the weather can do. I have several trees and I can tolerate one or two prima donnas which fruit when they feel like it, but if I had only one tree I would not put up with that behaviour.
Many varieties have the habit of over-producing one year and the following year giving no or very little crop, sometimes you only find out after growing seven or eight years.
The only apple variety I can recommend from personal experience for reliability is James Grieve. They never have failed me.
Until this year I would also have recommended George Cave, but both my two trees have just let me down after twenty faultless years.
I have a good Brownlees Russett, twelve problem-free years and counting. It is a bit too soon to say.
I also have five year-old Fiestas and Spartans which are beginning to look promising. Time will tell.