Reccys on Scythe for Lotti?

Started by irridium, January 19, 2014, 15:30:15

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irridium

Birthday coming up soon, and family is wanting my ultimate wish list. I've been coverting a scythe for some time now, but as there is a plethora of different ones, sizes, double handles etc. I don't know what I'm buying. As I'm only 5', i don't anything too big for me to handle. I've borrowed one before for a year but had to return it. It was an old Spear & Jackson one with a 8" blade. I don't remember it being too "inappropriate" for me to handle, but I do remember I kept catching it on the brambles (too, too many!) The max. price on this will be about £70+. Has anyone bought one before? If so, where to buy please? Thanks.

PS. I've got the whole works of nasty weeds on the grassy plot together with willow whips, willowherb, J.knotweed, dock. I know the tougher plants would need a much stronger implement like a mattock or such like, so I'm not expecting the scythe is to take these up.

irridium


terrier

Have a look at this site:

http://www.thescytheshop.co.uk/index.html

Lots of useful info here. As with any tools, don't buy cheap, buy the best you can afford.

goodlife

#2
You can  actually get 'bramble' blade for scythe for tougher weeds.. :icon_cheers: (looks like they call it 'bush blade')
I have set of different blades for my scythe, each for different 'job', so scythes are really a multi task tool...you just have to learn to look after the blades to it to work.
Not difficult as such but just need attention to the detail...and investment for few more tools.

I bought brand new scythe couple of years ago to replace my old wooden one...paid about £70 for a  aluminium shaft with bramble blade and bought extra 'finer multiuse' blade for it too..that was another £+25..so it is not really 'cheaper' but lacking all the extras what you would need when starting up. I bought it only because I was able to have a 'feel' of the scythe..and it fitted my 5ft 9 height.
My old wooden shaft that I bought second hand was really too big for me, it did do its job, but I always felt like I needed half allotment room to swing it around :drunken_smilie:..it wasn't easy to learn with.. :BangHead:..but I only paid £10 for it with blades :icon_cheers: in carboot. Now luckily the blades (old very thin type) are brilliant...so easy to sharpen and keep so do fit my new shaft too.


I would recommend making telephone call for the scytheshop after reading their website for all info...beginners set probably is the best option as it will come as 'complete' with sharpening tools too, but have a chat and see what he recommends to you.
If you buy something 'cheaper' you really need to know what you are buying and to see/feel the tool in person...for example..the blades on mine needed proper sharpening job before they were workable..you might be able to get pre-prepared blades from proper supplier that will save you lot of time, effort and head ache if you don't already know how to sharpen the blades....much easier to learn the skill from gentle 'touching up' job rather than making brand new cutting edge from scratch.
something for you to see about peening... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf4aByK17LU

artichoke

Simon Fairlie   http://www.thescytheshop.co.uk/index.html   is absolutely brilliant. I went on a weekend course in Brighton last year and came away with a scythe fitted to my height, the skill to use it, and sharpening and peening equipment. My allotments are no longer a nightmare - any time, I can scythe down the weeds and dig and sow. I am fed up with my strimmer, so noisy and unreliable.

Get a scythe! You will never regret it.

artichoke

PS I asked him for a ditch blade because I need it against brambles and nettles and coarse weeds. It is shorter and heavier than the others, which are useful for mowing meadows. It has been very effective.

daveyboi

#5
Warning If you have the dreaded Japanese Knotweed  you want to avoid cutting it down if possible and treat it with weed killer where it is. A tiny splinter can root and make the problem worse and also it is so deep rooted and can regrow if you leave any small piece of root behind. It is also a controlled waste thing and can not be disposed of elsewhere.

If  it is a council owned allotment maybe they will treat it for you.

Japanese knotweed

Japanese knotweed is an introduced plant that, in about 150 years, has spread to every county in the country, despite the fact that only the female plant was introduced and fertile seeds are not produced.

In April new shoots with bright green heart-shaped leaves grow very rapidly, so a mature stand can reach 8-10 feet. In late summer, small white flowers appear, before the plant dies back again in the Autumn. In the winter the stems die back and turn brown, but remain standing like Bamboo poles so the plant is not very noticeable in winter unless there is a large stand of it.

Why is it a problem?
It smothers native vegetation.
It can cause structural damage to walls, path, buildings, rivers and drains.
It is very very difficult to kill.
It produces massive underground stems.
It will grow in almost any soil - particularly in sunny places.
A fragment of root about the size of a thumbnail is enough to start a new plant.
It can cause structural damage to walls, path, buildings, rivers and drains.
It will root from cut stems if these are left in contact with the ground.



What should you do if you see some?
If it's on someone else's land inform the landowner, if appropriate.
If it's on highway land in West Sussex, inform Highways and Transport.
If it's on development land, inform the local district or borough council.
If it's on your property... If it's a small amount, and not growing near water, treat it with Glyphosate (Roundup) weedkiller. It may take several treatments. Please remember that it dies back in winter. Do not compost or move the plant as this will encourage its spread.
If it's a large area of growth, or near water, seek specialist advice.

Daveyboi
Near Haywards Heath Southern U.K.

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