Allotments 4 All

Quote from: RobinOfTheHood on January 18, 2010, 20:18:23
I'm doing Ailsa Craig (last years leftovers), Kelsae (don't really know owt about them) and Bedfordshire Champion (said to be good for storing).

Might do a red too if I can find one in the next week or so.

Chris, what do you mean by lose their sting - are they particularly strong?

Kelsae's like food (BFB is pretty good) especially between April and June, I'd put some in when I plant out and topdress twice) and they're a bit thirstier than other onions so I always try to stick some extra compost in under them too. They can bulk up very big in a hurry in July if they've got the green-growth on properly by the end of June.

They're no stronger than a "normal" onion but they get milder after they've been in storage for a month or so.

chrisc

This is a clip from a pamphlet by K Foster word record holder. I try to remember that is only one persons preference on growing onions which may not suit you, but if you combine a number of people advice you may get a method to suit what  you have available

Growing Onions
Sow late Dec/early Jan for dressed onions and about the 12th Dec for the big ones in good seed compost Levingtons F2 is the one I use. Fill a seed tray and water and water the compost before sowing. Do not firm the compost this is an old practice that does more harm than good, just scrape off the compost level that's all you need to do. Sow your seeds spaced out in your seed tray and cover with just enough to cover the seeds. Place in a propagator at 70F bottom heat and 65F top heat these temperatures are essential for correct germination, please note that seeds can be treated with Benlate before sowing to prevent neck rot. Only use a very tiny amount as it can prevent good germination.
Cover with polythene and  some thing to exclude the light and place in your chamber/propagator (70f bottom heat) and your seeds should come up strong about 6 to 10 days later, remove the covering and check for moisture, water only if required. Prick out at the stage when they start to straighten up from the crook stage. Use 3 inch pots filled with good quality compost, Levingtons M2 is what I use. When finished pricking out water with warm water ( about blood heat) in fact at all stages water with warm water . Stand the pots on a heated bench, top and bottom heat of 65F they should be grown at this temperature throughout, growing in cooler temperatures produces short squat plants which produces few leafs and consequently grow flat bulbs.
Keep them in these pots for 4 weeks or until you have three true leafs then pot them on again this time using Levingtons M3 with 20 percent good ground soil, into 6 inch pots, without disturbing the root ball, do not put in any feed.

That does leave out the fact that the guys growing the big ones use growlights and elevated levels of carbon dioxide :D

chrisc