Topic: Propegator

[Andy H]

think I spelt it wrong, I don`t mean a real crocodile but one of those things that start seeds ;D

Q:When the seeds have come up the question is lid or no lid??

Q:Does it matter?

Q:Higher lid better? or best to remove lid to allow growth(height) and air circulation but retain bottom heat or remove and place elsewhere?

[SpeedyMango]

Hello.

Not much experience with propagators, I was given my first one last Xmas.

However I would recommend opening the vents then removing the lid altogether (after a few days) once the seeds have germinated*. I didn't do that last year and the plants became leggy - too much heat can be a bad thing. You can of course then use the propagator on the next batch of seeds!

*assuming, of course you have a suitable window-sill or other seedling-friendly place to let your plants continue growing.

[tim]

Andy - I'll answer this in the 'Shed', in case I get told off here!! = Tim

[Roy Bham UK]

Never used a propagator, I've reared palm tree seeds by using the baggy method with no ventilation, I put damp Sphagnum Moss (Bog Moss) or Coir in a plastic bag and tie, place in the airing cupboard til sprouting then transfer to seed pots to grow on. 8)

[ACE]

I have built a really large one with insulating foam sheets, then laid the hot wire in the bottom, made a very sandy potting mix and I use it for cuttings there is plenty of room so I put my seed trays in there but take them out when they have germinated, then put them in a cold frame. The lid stays on all the time as the moisture  drips back on the  cuttings. Cheshunt mixture is a must as damping down can be a big problem with propogators ( I bet I've spelt it wrong now). So in answer to your question seeds out when ready, cuttings stay in until they are big enough, but lid stays on.

[Mimi]

Andy, I have a smallish one that will hold 1 large seed tray or two small.  I find that things that germinate in the propergator usually get off really quickly and unless I move them somewhere cooler to start to grow, the young seedlings get very leggy and are more at risk of getting damping off.  Hope that this makes some sense to you.

[philcooper]

Andy,

As always - it depends.

How big is the propagator? What are you using it for? Where is it

If it's large as Heritage's appears to be then it's effectively a mini greenhouse and I would leave the lid on and move things in and out.

If small then you can only put one or two things at a time you can remove or leave the lid to suit the contents, until they are replaced.

For lots of cuttings, after a short period with the top on to stop desiccation, removing the top prevents the danger of fungal problems. Some, like geraniums don't like cover at all but the bottom heat is useful to speed rooting.

If it's in an unheated environment then removing the top at this time of year almost completely negates the use of the propagator, in a heated environment or a greenhouse in summer then the removal of the top to retain gentle bottom heat helps maintain the soil temp overnight where this is required.

At the moment I'm using my small, 2 tray size, propagator (set at ~23ºC) to raise African Violet cuttings and some cactus/succulent offsets in an unheated (10º - 15º) room. The lid is firmly on, but I check regularly for fungal problems. The next occupants will be onion seeds and they will be out as soon as they germinate. Bedding plants follow and they remain in, with lid on, until seed leaves are reasonably well developed but before legginess creeps in, then it’s the fuchsia and petunia cuttings which remain covered until fresh growth is seen then the top comes off for a week then they are out, then the geraniums, no top, then.......

The large home-made job in the frost free greenhouse will be used from Jan to start chrysanth stools and dahlia tubers off, then the temp goes up to root their cuutings. Then it's bedding plant seeds and veg that like a bit of warmth (tomatoes, squashes). The "lid" stays firmly on (access is via flap on the side). Inhabitants are moved out as soon as they  either can't stand the environment any longer (getting too leggy) or are capable of fending for themselves on the greenhouse staging.

If anyone is interested I do have the plans for this home-made job, it's 2' x 3' (for "real gardeners") or 90cm x 60cm for others and has been going strong for around 15 years.

Phil

[tim]

What an exposition! = Tim

[philcooper]

Sorry Tim,

I thought I would just try to answer the question!

Phil  ;)

[Andy H]

 :othanks phil (I think)! :-\

I think I have a problem as capilary matting going funny.

Are they ok to use without matting?
ie:layer of water in base of propagator?

[ACE]

I would not stand seed trays in water, cut up an old towel and put in there. You could always useCARPET ;D

[philcooper]

Guess what - it depends! ;)

For cuttings the moisture is required but for seed raising, providied the compost is moist then there is no need to keep the matting damp as it harbours fungus - which is probably what makes it "go funny" - one of the fungi will be the cause of damping off

Phil

Is that a short enough answer?

[Andy H]

yeah thanks,what exactly is damping off?

someone just said to me the capilary matting should be damp but not wet to the touch? The amount of water suggested would make it wet?

[philcooper]

Andy,

Damping off is a fungal disease that causes seedlings to "keel over" and die, the stems rot and once once seedling in a tray/pot has it, most are like to surcome - the name comes form the fact that the disease is associated with damp atmosphere

If you do need moisture for cuttings then it the matting shows moisture when you press it that should be enough

My bought propagator has deep groves in which can hold water without the pots/trays being in contact with it

Phil

[Andy H]

I guess I got a totally wrong idea of all this then!
I thought the idea of the matting was to keep the soil "watered". Is it then,that the moisture in the matting (or grooved base as in your case) provides the damp atmosphere from the warmth of the base?

Sorry, being a bit thick :P

[ACE]

I have mentioned bfore that a good remedy for damping off is cheshunt compound. A tin cost about a fiver but will last for years. Just mix as per directions and gently spray once a week to keep it under control. I do not know if it is on the organic list. So check first if you are that way inclined.

[tim]

Phil - phool!! That was a compliment.

Capillary matting? I do NOT want to start a cross-current but, to my mind:
1. Capillary matting will lift water- ON DEMAND - from a reservoir up to 4" below.
2. Or it will feed pots standing on it in a tray - IF it is continually kept moist. Never leave pots in water.
3. If Citrox is used as recommended, you will not get an infection. But careful ventilation, & sterilisation of pots etc can averrt damping off
4. The whole of our 6' bench is fed from a reservoir - into which we add Citrox a couple of times, & we XXX have never had damping off. = Tim

[Andy H]

Thanks all for your comments and help.
I will lessen the water and go get some cheshunt and citrox tomorrow.

The propergator is a 55w 21" x 13"
My main concern is the chilean wine palm seeds...