Author Topic: Starting with free range broilers - any advice?  (Read 3469 times)

SnooziSuzi

  • Acre
  • ****
  • Posts: 475
  • ~ Su in Durham~
Starting with free range broilers - any advice?
« on: June 28, 2007, 22:09:54 »
HI guys

Having read a few of the posts on here it's clear you are all quite knowledgable about stuff and that!

I've just taken on a second lottie which is overgrown with weeds and it's my intention to keep free range broilers as opposed to layers.  I know; broilers are meant to be kept in inhumane conditions where you don't let them run around, but I just don't think this is right so I'm hoping for a few sage words from you all on what to do and what NOT to do!  :D

Also,  I don't want layers as they would produce more eggs than I could use and there are only so many eggs you can give away to family and friends, but could I eat any eggs that they layed?  I may also consider having a cockeral if it's necessary, but I wasn't planning on breeding the little buggers!
SnooziSuzi
Acting my shoe size, not my age!

OliveOil

  • Hectare
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,543
  • Lincs
    • Phoenix Traders Forum
Re: Starting with free range broilers - any advice?
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2007, 07:01:21 »
I looked after my friends broilers and it was awful

Let me just get this clear to you ok... Eating birds are bred to grow quickly, to grow quickly they eat alot.  It cost my friend £5 a week in corn to feed 5 Sasso's.  By only a few weeks old their legs start to shake as they are soooo heavy.  Watching them get up to weight staying up on their feet is not a nice thing.

I know my friend said he wouldnt do them again as they had cost something like £30 each to feed by the end of it.

I personally would look at a utility bird and expect that you wont get as much meat off it.  Something like RIRxLight Sussex or Orp x LS.  They wont cost half as much to feed and wont need such specialised care.

SnooziSuzi

  • Acre
  • ****
  • Posts: 475
  • ~ Su in Durham~
Re: Starting with free range broilers - any advice?
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2007, 09:33:21 »
Thanks Olive

I was thinking of trying to find a variety that would mature in around 1 year to 18 months.  I have read that most broilers have been bred to be slaughtered after 6 or 8 weeks but I wanted mine to get fat over a period of time, not as fast as possible.

Are there any varieties that are good for this that you know of?
SnooziSuzi
Acting my shoe size, not my age!

OliveOil

  • Hectare
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,543
  • Lincs
    • Phoenix Traders Forum
Re: Starting with free range broilers - any advice?
« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2007, 09:55:23 »
heres a link on sassos http://www.smart-chicks.co.uk/home.html

http://www.ellelfreerangepoultry.co.uk/product.htm

These birds are slow maturing as far as broilers go but i think you will find them 'off their legs' by 8 months old at the very most. 6 months you might beable to manage it with careful feeding - but remember they are hungry birds and you cant starve them.

If you really want a table bird to grow over a year you will have to go with a x such as rirxLS or Orp x and expect to still only feed 3 people at the most per bird imo.

growmore

  • Hectare
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,023
  • Practice Beats Theory. Don Valley South Yorks
Re: Starting with free range broilers - any advice?
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2007, 10:29:17 »
Agree with OliveOil You don't want broilers if you are after running em free range
for the length of time you said .. Sad to say but I don't think most broilers would live 18 months ..
Broilers are bred to be ready for oven in about 6 to 10 weeks ..
Even normal utility cross bred birds would  be ready in a lot less time than 18 months.
At 18 months old  with most breeds they would be more like  boilers  not  broilers ..  :)


Cheers .. Jim

norfolklass

  • Hectare
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,036
  • Norwich - a fine city
Re: Starting with free range broilers - any advice?
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2007, 10:55:22 »
are 'broilers' all chickens bred specifically for their meat? or are they just one particular type of eating chicken??

cos now I'm thinking that when I buy chicken breasts from organic free range chickens that, according to the label, have been free to roam in fields and scratch about under trees, it doesn't say anything about them only being a few months old and collapsing under their own weight :-\ :(

is there such a thing as a free range chicken that's bred for the table??
what does HFW do?!? his chickens look happy and healthy and he eats them - are they layers?

confused, and seriously thinking about becoming a vegetarian again.
« Last Edit: June 29, 2007, 10:56:59 by norfolklass »

OliveOil

  • Hectare
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,543
  • Lincs
    • Phoenix Traders Forum
Re: Starting with free range broilers - any advice?
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2007, 11:03:17 »
Hi norfolklass... yes those organic chicken breasts are broilers too - though they will be slower growing by a couple of weeks only!!!  Did you see the 'tonight programme' the other week?  It showed that those organic chooks are no better off than the cheap brands and contained a huge amount of more fat!  The only way to guarantee good birds is from a local supplier at a farmers market or such like.

HFW has utility birds rather than the broilers   heres a bit from his website
Dual purpose
Cuckoo Maran A large, hardy bird that matures slowly but is ultimately excellent eating. Reasonable layer (average 100 eggs per year).
Light Sussex A much-favoured dual purpose bird, hardy and strong. Good layer (average 100 to 150 eggs per year).
Dorking One of the oldest breeds around, possibly introduced by the Romans; tough, adaptable and excellent eating. Poor layer (40 to 50 eggs per year).
Wyandott A charming white powder puff of a bird, with a good weighty carcass under the fluffy feathers. Poor layer (40 to 50 eggs per year).
Dumpy A favourite Scottish breed, hardy and tolerant. Good eating. Poor layer (40 to 50 eggs per year).
Rhode Island Red The bird from which the brown-egg-laying hybrids originate. A good layer (100-plus eggs per year) and a reasonable eater.

Especially for eating Ross Cobb The Cobb (often known as a 'Ross Cobb', as the frozen food company of that name did much to develop the breed) has been bred to put on weight at an astonishing rate. Most of the factory-farmed broilers are variations on the Cobb theme. Intensively farmed, with the 'benefit' of drugs, hormones and dubious feeds, they can be table-ready within twelve weeks of hatching. They also have a tendency to 'go off their legs': putting on so much breast weight without being able to develop their leg musculature effectively cripples them, and they cannot even walk. But restored to a more natural environment, Cobbs do well and make good eaters. Crossing Cobb hens with cockerels of a hardier dual-purpose breed, such as the Light Sussex or Maran, makes for a slower-growing, more balanced eating bird.


Indian Game A 'fancy' breed related to the fighting thingy, the Indian Game is a big, powerful bird. The pure-bred bird is indeed slightly gamy, and tougher than a normal eating chicken, but those who like the idea of a real farmyard bird to roast will love it. Indian Games cross well with other, softer eating hens, such as the Wyandott and Ross Cobb. The Indian Game thingy was the chosen 'stud' in my attempt to breed fine table birds, After a couple of dud cockerels, I finally got hold of a 'perfomer' that crossed with my own mixed flock of dual-purpose birds. All the resulting birds were good eating. The Wyandott cross was the best, closely followed by the Dorking. I was later informed that I should have done this the other way round, using Indian Game hens to cross with cockerels of other dual-purpose breeds


 

anything
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal