Topic: Metal shed - advice on foundations and fixing please!

[supersprout]

Finally took the plunge and ordered a lockable metal garden shed for the lottie :P, 4 ft x 8 ft. It says you need DIY experience to put it up, and I'm sure my son and I will enjoy the challenge of doing this together  ;D in a month or so. BUT I want to prepare for its arrival first.
Has anyone put up a similar shed?
Could you offer advice on how to secure the shed to the ground i.e. what materials and methods will stop the shed blowing away :o? And how best to prepare the foundation area in advance?
Advice would be very welcome on what 'extras' you found worthwhile ordering -- I am being offered a tool rack (channels with brackets), a Hilti impact fixing kit, translucent roof panel, and a shelf kit - which, if any, of these might you think would be worth paying for? Any other ideas about essential infrastructure welcome ...
Thank you for your help, I know someone out there has the answers and look forward to hearing from you. ::)

[Bodolph]

I've just ordered my metal shed for the lottie too! Must be the season for it. Most metal sheds come with anchoring kits for concrete or flagstones - this is normally the Hilti impact fixing kit. Others can be bought with a timber framing that you level, build the shed onto and the flood with concrete.

However as a DIY experimentalist I'll not be following these routes (can't lay concrete at the lottie any way). I'm planning on leveling some pallets that are nailed together, probably sunk partly into the ground (try to leave some gap for ventilation. Overlay this with some impervious plastic sheeting and plywood. Then fix the shed to this.

Sound like a plan?  ;D

[kenkew]

As a non-permanent fixing (lotties for instance) just sink 3x3 timber at the corners and bolt through. Stand the shed on bricks.
Permanent is best on level concrete. While it's still wet, put a coarse of bricks down all the way round for it to stand on and continue the bricks across the centre to form a cross. (Bigger sheds might need more 'crossing' bricks). Using angle brackets, screw it to the bricks. Try to lay the bricks so the shed is level with the outer edge of the perimiter bricks. Done that way, you have support all the way round and under the floor. When the shed is in position, run a bedding of cement from top of bricks to concrete base at an angle to disperse rain water.

[supersprout]

Thank you for this advice!
Kenkew, what length should the 3x3 timbers be, would you say?

[kenkew]

Length depends on how far you knock 'em in! Also depends on where your door is. Some are top opening, some are front. If you put one at each corner you'll probably be OK with 2x2.  If it's top then so long as you manage at least a foot into the ground you'll be OK after bolting it together. If it's a front loader I'd be inclined to work on leaving at least 2ft higher then the shed after knocking 'em in. That way you can add battons around the posts and put extra shelving or a work place above your shed...boom, boom.

[supersprout]

Now that's a really good idea, instant wall shelving ...  ::)Thank you kenkew! ;D

[sid]

hi wat a frend of mine did was to put sume breez blocks on the ground then he screwed the post to the blocks then screwed to the shed to the post he did this to stop rats from nesting under the shed and it works he says if u have your shed up of the ground by around 5 to 6 inch the rats wont nest under it

[Robert_Brenchley]

Not only that, but if you have a plot like mine, which can flood, then it's a sensible move to raise it above flood level. My inherited shed floods badly, but when I finally get round to replacing it, I'll put that right.

[kenkew]

Might be an idea to cover the underside with grease. That will add protection and keep rats, mice and slugs out.