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Composting is not as easy as it seems. I have one heap that has completely stalled, initially through lack of moisture but despite my efforts now seems inert. The material has not properly rotted but seems almost preserved. The volume is about a cubic metre and I'd like to get it to a state where it could be spread or dug back in to the plot. I'll be pinching the idea to use fresh manure to get it active again. I'm pleased you asked.
I'll be pinching the idea to use fresh manure to get it active again.
Having had a problem with herbicides in manure I am now very cautious about it.I test every batch with broad beans. A pot of soil and a pot of manure, you will quickly see the difference if it is contaminated.Another rule is to never bury manure. I put it on the surface near the plants but never touching. Then in they show any sign of issues it can be easily raked off. I have one lump of what was contaminated manure and the worms still will not touch it.Worms do not not seem to like contaminated manure and if they are abundant in manure I would suggest it is ok. Also a contaminated manure heap does not heat up, so for me a warm manure pile is a good sign.The effects of weedkiller in manure seems to be worse in my soil, so I would suggest that if you have alkaline soil you need to be more careful.Bacteria in soil are supposed to breakdown the weedkillers. So I pour water with soil in it and yoghurt on my manure piles. It seems to help.That said I use a lot of manure.
Don't add couch grass and bindweed roots to the heap: you just don't want to reinfect your plot with something that pernicious!