Planting a fruit tree
on a dwarfing rootstock next to a house is fine because they have weak roots & could never threaten the foundations (though there's at least one plum/peach rootstock that can sucker metres away).
But be aware that some pre-Victorian houses are on wildly different foundations - sometimes none at all (which is fine for a wooden house - so it depends on how much brick was added by later idiots).
On the other hand figs and grapes can be pruned to any size so they aren't worth the trouble of grafting in this way - you just have to keep pruning.
If you don't prune a fig it can reach 15m (and a grape vine could run right through that and come out the top).
If you were planting the fig you would try to constrain the roots to force the fig to push more energy into fruit (this is better than pruning and also means less pruning) but that normally involves building it a stone 'coffin' with a base of rubble
(see
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=106 ).
If you have thin soil over bedrock then your fig is already constrained enough - but it will still root sideways.
If your soil is very heavy you can do without a container for a few years (maybe as much as 10 on solid clay) before the fig gets too comfortable & starts making less fruit and far more branches and leaves instead. Many people then start trenching and prune the roots they can find, others just replace it with a new tree, I don't know anyone who has managed by just top pruning, but the extreme Japanese method might just do the trick:
https://growinggreener.blogspot.com/2006/08/method-for-growing-figs-in-japan-with.html .
I'd say if it is small then dig it up (now) & move it into a strong 'coffin', if it is medium try pruning, if it is large either get it out or go Japanese on it -
before your insurers get to hear about it (they often over-react even to modern apple/pear trees - they would have a fit if they saw a big fig).
Cheers.