Topic: new allotment, clay soil, weeding, covering...

[flossy]

 OMG !!!!

Meant ' through ' !!   :-[

Floss xxx

[Larkshall]

Fair comment Larksall... I based my experience on when I started. Hired heavy rotivator for a day for £50. Spent the day bouncing about all over my new plot ripping up the surface weeds, but hardly breaking the surface.

But hope you'll agree you can't beat the satisfaction of the manual method with spade.

Yes, I do agree.

The problem is that most people think if they get a powerful rotavator it will get down to the full depth, this only happens if there is sufficient weight to force it in and the moisture content is suitable. Once you have dug the clay to the full depth it is then easy to loosen up the whole lot. After I have been over the bed with the Mantis Tiller, if I step on the soil my boot will sink right in. It's much easier than trying to loosen it up with a fork.

[cornykev]

Welcome to the madhouse  :P  IE, as already said should be no problem with the spuds they don't mind a few weeds and with plenty of well rotted manure they should grow a treat next year and break down some of the clay at the same time. ;D ;D ;D

[Bluejane]

Some brilliant advice here. I wonder if anyone's done either of two options I read recently - either 1) spreading a layer of grass clippings followed by a layer of cardboard followed by a layer of topsoil/compost/muck; or 2) putting down a thick layer of newspapers with grass clippings on top. I've an area of longish grass/weeds that I want to prepare for planting next spring and I'm planning to dig out the brambles/gorse, then strim the grass and then do one of the above. Any views on either of these?
Thanks!

[1066]

Some brilliant advice here. I wonder if anyone's done either of two options I read recently - either 1) spreading a layer of grass clippings followed by a layer of cardboard followed by a layer of topsoil/compost/muck;

I'm interested in this idea, as I have some areas which are yet to be covered and then dug. I've heard about using all 3 components but not at the same time, so I don't see why it couldn't work, what with excluding the light etc.  I wonder how long it would take to break down, kill off the grass etc? I'd be interested to see if anyone else has tried this as well
1066

[manicscousers]

we've done the cardboard, well rotted muck then mulched with grass clippings, worked for us, killed off lots of nasty weed underneath  ;D

[ewal]

Regarding clay soil, keep off when wet, rotovate if you have one it is hard work but easier than digging, potatoes are a good first crop as they break the soil up. My place is near a brick yard & when we came here 51 years ago the land hadn't been worked since it was a field. From the day we arrived all the ash & cinders from the fire have been spread on the garden & rotovated in.

 ewal.

[incredible edible]

WOW, hello again all, so good to hear all this advice, Im really enjoying spending time on the plot clearing and planning as i go, just got a good source of horse manure (hopefully) and looking to get some covering for the bits I can't get to yet. Pallets for the compost heap have been spotted and should be moved to the plot soon...!

Its really exciting just clearing and making space atm too, I can't wait til im actually growing things. Gonna try some borax and jam on the ants, so I'll keep you informed.

One Question ( of many still ) is it worth getting some mustard seed in, how long does it take to grow to get dug in? That'll do for now, Oh I think I've spotted some comfrey on there too so going to get that soaking soon....

Once again, many thanks, marvellous site ....  :)

[hopalong]

One Question ( of many still ) is it worth getting some mustard seed in, how long does it take to grow to get dug in?

Not sure about mustard seed, but if you are thinking of green manures, Hungarian grazing rye and field beans can be sown at this time of year for overwintering and fixing nutrients in the soil. You dig the plants in when spring arrives. I am also growing fenugreek (which smells good too) as a green manure but it may be too late to sow that now.  The Organic Gardening catalogue supplies seeds for green manures.

[nilly71]

I got my plot about a month ago.
The easiest way i found to get rid of as much weed as possable was to use a bit of ply(found in the bushes) and place this near the place i want to dig. Dig about 4 forks of soil and place straight onto the ply (ply was ideal as you can break the lumps of clay up with the fork) and just sit there breaking up all the lumps, putting the weeds and nasty pests straight into a bucket for burning.

I put a couple of good sized heaps of manure into the hole and dig that into the bottom, as i put the soil back in i added a heap of b&q multy purpose compost and dug it all in together.

I found it took about 45 minutes to do between 4-6 big folk fulls but that covered about 4' which is the width of my raised beds and raised it by about 6". I personaly think its worth the effort to get ride of all the nasties and when i moved the ply another folk width it was easier to dig down as the soil i just turned was nice and light.

Hope the above made sense.

Neil

[kenkew]

Fair comment Larksall... I based my experience on when I started. Hired heavy rotivator for a day for £50. Spent the day bouncing about all over my new plot ripping up the surface weeds, but hardly breaking the surface.

But hope you'll agree you can't beat the satisfaction of the manual method with spade.

Yes, I do agree.

The problem is that most people think if they get a powerful rotavator it will get down to the full depth, this only happens if there is sufficient weight to force it in and the moisture content is suitable. Once you have dug the clay to the full depth it is then easy to loosen up the whole lot. After I have been over the bed with the Mantis Tiller, if I step on the soil my boot will sink right in. It's much easier than trying to loosen it up with a fork.

Dead right;

Pic one, turned over in late Sep with a spade. Pic two after my Mantis had a go in spring.