Grogirl I suggest you grow either a cigar or pipe variety as well & start experimenting with blending for example 90% virginia + 10% Havana or 60% Virginia 40% Monte Calme Brun will both give a stronger tasting tobacco or you could grow something really strong like Rustica or Knightiana & use about 5% in the mix. As I have already said there are over 70 varieties I know of all can be blended in different proportions to give different flavours. When you start blending write down what you put in each blend so you can repeat it it is easy to forget & can be very hard to recreate something if you don't have it written down. You should also bare in mind that the taste of your tobacco will mature with time a bit like wine does, always grow too much so you can store some away for a few years.
As i've already said I can provide seed if needed if you want to buy them I would reccomend the following companies:
http://www.coffinails.com/order.htmlThese seeds ship with the best instructions for growing & curing tobacco you will see anywhere on the net, prices include shipping worldwide.
http://www.newhopeseed.com/tobacco/tobacco_seed_varieties.htmThey will be adding a lot of new varieties soon as you can see from the website.
http://www.tabakanbau.de/de/A good range of seeds but you need to be able to read German to navigate the site.
http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/Chiltern seeds have 6 varieties of smoking tobacco
There are plenty of other companies if you search around but these I have dealt with personally & would reccommend. There are always seeds on ebay but I would advise caution as there are people selling tobocco growing kits over 20 years out of date & seeds which turn out to be a completely different variety to what they claim I am sure there are genuine sellers as well but I wouldn't take the risk.
http://www.thetobaccoseed.com/This is the company Jaggythistle copied the growing info from I haven't ordered from them & think they are expensive but they do offer a good selection.
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Okay onto curing. This is the bit where people get confused because the word curing can mean lots of different things. It may seem complicated until you have done it for yourself but I will explain the different types of curing first then explain what I do.
1. Colour curing, Tobacco farmers refer to the drying of the leaf as curing. Just hanging it on canes or galvanised wire to dry gradually. It does not involve any fermenting or sweating of the leaf. This could be done with individual leaves or you could hang the complete plant it will just take longer if you hang the whole plant.
1a. Sweating to colour cure, This process is a risky one, it involves making a heap of the leaf placing the end of the stem to the outside edge. Never use this method if you have already slit the leaf for cane hanging or with damaged leaves, as the sap will act like acid on the good leaves & you'll end up with compost.
You build up a pile of leaves and wrap in a cloth and leave for 24 hours, open the stack and allow any moisture to dry off. Now rebuild the stack with the previous inner ones now on the outer, the heat from the natural fermentation will gradually remove the green and speed up the colour change in the leaf.
Repeat the process over 5 days until all leaves are yellow and then hang to dry.
2. Fermenting also called sweating, This is the process by which ammonia is released from the leaf to make it smokable. It can be done by heaping the (already colour cured) tobacco into large piles called pilones that raise the temperature and humidity or by use of a kiln (curing chamber) with a heater and humidifier. Under the raised temperature and humidity enzymes in the leaf cause it to ferment. It is not necessary to spray a fermenting solution on the leaf as some suggest. The enzymes will do it naturally. Sometimes this is also refered to as curing.
3. Air curing, This is simply drying (curing) the leaf by hanging it in the open air, usually in a barn. It usually takes about two months. It produces a brown, tan or red leaf with almost no sugars in it.
4. Flue curing, This is drying a leaf quickly after the leaf has turned yellow and before it can turn brown. The temperatures of the flue curing barn are slowly raised and can go as high as 170 degrees F. It takes about one week. It produces a leaf that is yellow or orange and is high in sugars. It is possible that the small home made kilns used by home growers could flue cure a leaf if you could safely raise the temperature high enough and vent the humidity from the drying leaf out of the kiln.
I personally prefer method 1a (stacking the leaves) to colour cure as it is faster and always works but it does need very careful monitoring.
I then dry the leaves on galvanised wire strung between the rafters in the attic then leave them until I am ready to ferment the leaves in my homemade curing chamber.
My curing chamber is basically the one described in the instructions you get when you order seeds from coffinails it is a box 6'x4'x4' made of 2" polystyrene flooring insulation which I paid £5.25 per 8x4 sheet from the local builders merchants taped together with double sided carpet tape, for the heat source I use a 2KW (2000w) oil filled radiator on which i have replaced the thermostat with a hot water cylinder thermostat so I can get it up to 120°F-130°F I have a Bionaire Warm Mist Humidifier BWM5700 £25 on ebay to add moisture and a comination digital thermometer/hygrometer to monitor the temperature & humidity & there is a 2" pipe sticking out the top to allow the excess moisture escape. There are a load of canes inside which I hang the tobacco from I keep an eye on it topping up the water in the humidifier as needed then after it has been in the chamber at around 120°F with 70% humidity for about 4-5 weeks the smell of the tobacco changes from an unpleasant (kinda like grass clippings) to a sweet smell. This means it is ready so it comes out of the chamber is hung up to dry completely then stored until I need to cut some up to smoke it.
I have looked at alternatives to the oil heater for the curing chamber, industrial heaters which are designed to operate in a humid environment specifically, & the most promising I have come up with so far is:
A silicone mat heater approximately 900mm x 900mm x 0.8mm
230 Volts 1000 Watts with a thermocouple attached to the heater mat. This heater would be laid in the bottom of your chamber on insulation so as not to have the floor absorb the heat. The power cable and thermocouple could be terminated to a temperature controller & you may want to have a second thermocouple located in the middle of the chamber so as to sense the air temperature and not the heater mat.
Unfortunately the cheapest quote I have had so far is in the region of £500 & I would have to buy it as parts then wire it up myself which is simple enough for me but as some people struggle to replace a thermostat this may be a problem for others. If anyone else has any suggestions for a heater which would be suitable then let me know your ideas basically the rule is is no flames no fumes & anything electrical needs to be sealed.
I shall leave it here for now if you have any more questions then ask.