Every year I'm not sure what to do with my leeks, although I have had reasonable crops most years (not so good last year but I blame the weather. this year I started them off in seed trays then pricked out half of them into small plant pots, one to each plant. those that are really overcrowded in the seed tray seem to be a lot healthier than those I pricked out- standing up straight and putting on a bit of thickness, whereas the individual pots are leaning over and very weedy.Obviously the state of the roots may be another matter, but what do you do?
well myself i would put the ones in the seed tray when you come to plant them out in a bowl of water give them a swish around and they will come apart easy with no damage to the roots or stems then just puddle them in make a hole with a dibber around 6" deep pop the leek in do the row then fill the hole with water once established give them a drop of Epsom salts or sulphate of ammonia and you should have no problems with them hope this helps please let me know how you get on :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny: :sunny:
How far apart do you plant them please
Quote from: brownthumb2 on June 05, 2016, 21:07:06
How far apart do you plant them please
6" apart and 2ft between rows seems to work for for me hope this helps
Thanks- that's my usual planting method= didn't know about the Epsom salts, though- what's the effect of those?
I would not leave 2 feet between rows. leave same space between each row as I leave between each plant
I still have a great deal of trouble getting them to the right kind of size needed to survive planting out in time. Maybe I should just start them off earlier, but I know that if I can get them to a pencil thickness then they transplant really well, but normally at planting out time after following the instructions, they're normally about half that thickness and struggle to emerge from the top of the dibbed holes.
For several years I tried various methods - sowing in large pots, small pots, cells - and couldn't get any plants the size of a pencil that you are supposed to have when you plant them out. They were more biro refills, but if you dib and water them in, they still produced (small) leeks.
A comment here or on the allotment led me last year to plant out the seedlings that I start indoors in a "nursery row", in late March / early April. They grow away and about now are at the fabled pencil size. I'll dig them up carefully and plant out in the usual way in the next two weeks.
Last year I got more decent size leeks. I don't grow them large as they seem tougher and stronger tasting which the cook dislikes. So we got more of a crop than before.
As to spacing, I set them at 9" - 12" each way.
Leeks are definitely one of the most worthwhile things I grow, so persevere!
I grow mine initially in a deep pot, then prick out into long rootrainers until thick enough to plant out. I grow mine in rows of five, about 30 in an 8x4 raised bed, then pick the second and fourth ones early to use and leave the others to grow on, they last us all winter.
My way
Seeds are large enough to sow individually into cell trays.
Once the root appears from the base of the cell, transplant them into 3" pot.
Now that they have lots of growing space I am in no hurry to plant them out, I just leave them in the cold frame until such times conditions are right for planting out.
When I plant out my plant spacings are 8"-9" apart in rows 15" apart.
Thanks for the advice! However, I am attempting to grow about 100 leeks for our family's needs over the winter and early spring period - do I REALLY need a 3" pot for each one in order to get decent leeks at planting out time? My greenhouse would be given over entirely to leek production if that was the case. There's got to be an easier way. I'm currently building up a Babington's Leek patch which I think may be the ultimate answer, but it's going to take a while to get enough plants.
QuoteDo I really need 3 pots?
No you could leave them in the cells until planting out time.
I use these to start with
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Seed%20sowing-indoors/Seed%20Pics/12-84c%20tray(12x12).jpg)
I have cut down the overall size of this tray down so that it fits in 2 standard seed trays.
Or you could consider these and forget the 3" pots:
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Seed%20sowing-indoors/Seed%20Pics/11-40c%20tray.JPG)
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Seed%20sowing-indoors/Seed%20Pics/10-24c%20tray..JPG)
Thanks TG - that looks like a good solution - I think my "bung all the seeds in a big pot" approach is starving them of resources so they don't grow quickly enough.
How do I grow leeks? Badly!
What is really annoying is that my oppo on the plot grows the most fantastic leeks. He was been collecting seed from his biggest and best leeks for years and they out-perform anything I can get from a packet. He throws a handful of seeds in some compost in the border of his greenhouse and then plants them out when he thinks they are ready and mostly it works really well. I end up sowing them in a seed tray then repotting them into another seed tray and then planting them out but they never get big and they get attacked by leek moth!!
The answer is in your question!
He was been collecting seed from his biggest and best leeks for years and they out-perform anything I can get from a packet.
For example if I am saving seeds of an onion or leek I always let the best example I have grown run on to set seed.
In other words I never eat it!
It's similar when I exhibited Chrysants and Dahlias I would mark the plant/ plants that produced the best flowers and only save these stools to produce next years stock.
If you have ever had a word with a champion grower at a show and you are in awe of the exhibit he/she has produced they will often say ....."I have left a bigger or better one at home"This is the plant that will be the source of next years stock.
So what you want to do is ask this neighbouring plot holder for some of his seed.
If he does give you some this does not mean you will be up there with him next year but I am sure you will have grown better than you have done in the past with your commercial seeds from a packet.
Quote from: caroline7758 on June 05, 2016, 21:51:51
Thanks- that's my usual planting method= didn't know about the Epsom salts, though- what's the effect of those?
this greens up leafy growth basically a leaf tonic and as leeks are a roll of leaves it works great
I am on a promise Tee Gee - he said he would give me some seedlings to plant out so we will see if he is as good as his word
Sorry rewind ...Epsom Salts ... how do I do this please ? :coffee2:
I always sow direct in the ground, about 1/2 - 1cm apart, this year 400 seeds between 13th and 16th April in 4 rows- keep them watered. Then when they are pencil sized or even slightly smaller towards the end of June or begining of July use a trowel to dig up and plant individually in holes made by dibber 6-8" deep. I put in bottom of hole Fish blood and bone or can use growmore, put in leek and fill hole with water. Plant 5-6" apart, I always keep soil wet until really established and then water well about 3x a week in sunny! South East unless it really pours down with rain. My leeks always grow really well although have in last 2 years started to have a problem with Leek miner- but as do all the people on my site that I have spoken to. The reason I grow so many is I plant out for myself about 100 leeks and give/sell the others for our Allotment Association funds.
I sow mine into a balcony planter, where they stay till they get planted out. I water with comfrey tea every couple of weeks or so to keep them going and they are now at pencil thickness mostly. They will go in when my early spuds are lifted, dibbed into holes with some BFB and then properly enviromeshed to keep off miners. Mine are 15 cm apart each way in a 120cm wide raised bed.
But there are only 50 leeks, so the faff is worth it.
Quote from: woodypecks on June 06, 2016, 22:31:39
Sorry rewind ...Epsom Salts ... how do I do this please ? :coffee2:
you can either sprinkle some around the leeks and gently hoe it in or water it in make make sure its well mixed i leave mine to stand over night then give it a stir before i water a generous handful per watering can as a general guide hope this helps
I thought Epsom Salts are a source of Magnesium, why will this be helping leaf development? I thought that was done by using Nitrogen.
Mine are never pencil thickness when I plant them out. Seem to do ok. I usually have 6-8 in a module and also like johhnyco15 swish them in water to separate. Or even a good scattering in a large 500ml yogurt pot.
Epsom Salts? Perhaps they have got indigestion. :tongue3: Personally I need the Epsom salts after I eat them. Ghastly things leeks.
Hi Caroline, becuase leeks have such brilliant buds and flowers I now grow mine in the flower bed. If you dont eat them they look amazing!
Quote from: bombus on June 16, 2016, 07:33:18
I thought Epsom Salts are a source of Magnesium, why will this be helping leaf development? I thought that was done by using Nitrogen.
this is how it helps Chemically, Epsom salts is hydrated magnesium sulfate (about 10 percent magnesium and 13 percent sulfur). Magnesium is critical for seed germination and the production of chlorophyll, fruit, and nuts. Magnesium helps strengthen cell walls and improves plants' uptake of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur. hope this explains the benifits
Nobody seems to have said it so :
Plant in a 4" pot, scattered seeds lightly firmed on the surface. water from the bottom. When 3-4" tall, seperate and plant out in a bed or deep tray, rows 4" apart, seedlings 1" apart. Water and FEED steadily.
When ready to plant out (when early spuds are clear) ,in rows as blocks of 4, 9" apart each way into deep hole, roots trimmed and holes flooded. If possible orientate so that you can plant parallel to your path to prevent walking on ground in (wet) winter.
Water if necessary and FEED!
I am jealous. I used to grow the most fantastic leeks year on year, then we moved to an area which gets leek moth. I have tried every which way and I gave up leeks last year :BangHead:
I had leek moth for the first time last year. Am intending to plant them under fine net - has anyone tried this and does it work please? Am really hoping this isn't now a major problem as leeks are one of my best overwinter crops
Growing under Veggie-mesh has stopped the leek moths/ leaf miners for two years in a row on my plot where the leeks were ravaged before.
I plant out my slips of 'grass' and after few days of watering I just let them get on with it, always get plenty to supply us for the year. If the leek moth makes an appearance I get out the shears and cut the tops off then leave them to grow again. I don't grow giants, but three leeks are enough for a meal for two.
I've seen planting in holes, clipping roots, giving the tops a light clip and all sorts of feeding regimes. If they are just for eating and not showing, leave them alone. As for spacing, just leave enough room for hoeing.
Quote from: ACE on June 19, 2016, 22:44:18
I plant out my slips of 'grass' and after few days of watering I just let them get on with it, always get plenty to supply us for the year. If the leek moth makes an appearance I get out the shears and cut the tops off then leave them to grow again. I don't grow giants, but three leeks are enough for a meal for two.
I've seen planting in holes, clipping roots, giving the tops a light clip and all sorts of feeding regimes. If they are just for eating and not showing, leave them alone. As for spacing, just leave enough room for hoeing.
Wot he said......,.😎
Well, nice to have provoked an interesting thread! I planted out the ones from the individual pots yesterday ( earlier than usual but they looked ready and I had space) and the soil just fell off the roots so they were easy to drop into the holes. I'll let you know if there's much difference in the final results between the crowded ones and these.
Mine are grown in much the same way as ancellsfarmer, sown second half of january in pots, planted out in a nursery bed early march and fed. (They are covered with a piece of held up clear polythene initially to aid establishment.
They will be planted out this week sometime about nine inches apart.
We don't have leek moth on our site but ACE what a great idea cutting off the tops to get rid of the pest. No problem as that is the bit many people discard anyway and the leek will grow fresh top growth.
I wonder if it would work with leek rust too. :happy7:
This is my first year that I've had mine looking so good and healthy. In previous years i used Musselbrough and Monstreux de Charentan. (spelling is probably off). This year Bleu de Solais.
The first year I used modules and got tiny little things for planting out. The next two years I sowed into Morrisons flower buckets and got a bit better. This year I sowed three rows in containers meant for windowsills and thinned to 1 plant per inch. Planted out in mid april at almost pencil size.
Given my high latitude compared to most on here I'm pretty happy with getting that size. Also, every other year I've had to hold some plants back because I'd get about 25% transplant failure. This year I lost one plant.
The lesson I'm taking away is previous overcrowding in infancy and possibly just a cultivar better suited to my conditions.
On my Allotment site everyone seems to get Rust on their Leeks every year, it also wiped two rows of Sweet Williams out one year. :BangHead:
Why is it the leeks grown by farmers don't show any signs of Rust? is there some sort of spray that they are able to use?