Despite reading books and checking some very good websites I am useless at successfully pruning grapes. I have 3 vines, one growing strongly with a good crop of grapes, another hugely vigorous but no grapes and a third which looks weak/sick. Is there an expert in the Weston super Mare area who can take me by the hand through the process please?
I admit that I did not prune mine last year as it was its first year of being in the ground, and this year it has reall ylong tender branches and 3 bunches of grapes! But I know that after it has fruited I will need to prune it. I find the articles on pruning such as the one on the RHS site absolutely incomprehensible.
I will also be watching this thread for advice!
Some methods are complicated, but for greenhouse grapes, have a look at this simple method on my site here:-http://www.growyourown.info/page74.html (http://www.growyourown.info/page74.html)
I spent the famous UK drought year of 1976 not gasping for water in South East UK, but helping to trim vines in a friend's vine yard in the Bordeaux region in France They had more rain and mud than we had in Kent! We staggered along the rows gathering heavy mud on our boots, hacking off leaves that were sheltering the developing grapes from any sun that was available.
That is what I now do. Chop the leaves, expose the grapes to the sun. Not complicated.
Grapes are pruned mainly in the winter but there is summer pinching/training to attend to too if you are to get reliable crops of grapes most years if not every year.
Winter pruning means removing around 90/95% of the previous year's growth either to spurs on a main framework or replacing old fruiting canes with new ones.
In summer shoots need to be trained upwards, side shoots pinched, topped out when they have reached their allotted space, leaves removed around the developing grape clusters, fruit protection etc.
I wrote a blog last year about growing grapes (link in my profile) which describes what you need to do. Because of the late start to the season I didn't bother with the blog this year but it looks like I will have a reasonable crop of grapes this year if the weather stays average or better till October.
I'm in south somerset some way from Weston super Mare. :happy7:
My grape vine goes wild this year thanks to the hottest July in record. A work colleague told me that I can cut off the growing tips so the plant can focus on growing the grapes. I have done so because it sounds reasonable. however, after reading here and search Internet, the tip-cutting method is not mentioned any where. what next, I guess I have ruined a good corp gifted by the extreme weather.
I maintain that the main point, as taught in Bordeaux, is to remove the fast growing leaves in order to expose the developing grapes to maximum sunshine.
You have not ruined your potential crop by stopping the main stems. Your friend was right it helps the developing grape bunches to do so.
Now you have to do what Artichoke says and remove any leaves shading the grape bunches themselves. This will result in the grapes ripening better and you will be able to see where they are.
Of course if you can see where they are so can the birds so some protection against our feathered friend is needed once the grapes begin to colour up. :happy7:
QuoteLeaves are the site of the food making process called photosynthesis. In this process, carbon dioxide and water in the presence of chlorophyll (the green pigment) and light energy are changed into glucose (a sugar). This energy rich sugar is the source of food used by most plants.
according to the above, by cutting leaves or growing tips (which stop growing more new leaves), it only going to give the plant less energy to grow (including the fruits-grapes), maybe grapes could do the photosynthesis process by themselves? or is it true that you only wait until the grapes had grown fully in size then cut growing tips and leaves to let the heat on grapes to speed up ripening?
Grape vines are very vigorous plants that if left to their own devices will grow into a huge unmanageable tangled mass. Any bunches that form will be smothered, with any goodness going into leaf production rather than fruit. (a similar story with tomatoes but that's another thread :happy7:)
They need to be controlled if they are to grow good fruit.
It is estimated that a grape bunch only needs about 12 leaves for it to ripen fully. Removing the tops of canes at 4-6 feet will leave plenty of leaves to ripen the fruit particularly since the canes will immediately begin to grow side shoots once they are stopped. So they will automatically have extra leaves but in a more convenient place.
It is also because they will grow new leaves that you can keep the area around the fruit bunches clear of leaves. something that is essential for quality fruit - the bunches need exposure to sunlight to grow the sweetest fruit, particularly for winemaking.
If all goes to plan you end up with a good fruit to leaf balance. Another bonus is that the stopped stems will thicken, laying down fruit buds for next year while giving the grower a selection of good wood to choose at pruning time making that task easier. (fruit bud initiation occurs better when the stems are in sunlight)
So yes grape vines need enough leaves to carry out all the functions needed of it. But not so many they will impinge on this years crop. (and next year's too potentially).
Growing grapes is relatively uncomplicated once you get the hang of it. But I'd say some action or other is needed every month the vine is in growth and a proper winter prune. :happy7:
Forgot to mention that clearing the leaves from around the fruit is best done just after fruit set when the grapes are about the size of small peas. :happy7:
Thanks for all the details, I will not hesitate cutting next time, and I think I cut the growing tips and leaves at the right time. now let the :sunny: does the rest! I rarely water them as I believe their roots goes very deep. I will keep these info for future reference.