I want to have a go at grafting a cherry and plum, but when is the right time to do it?
I've looked on Youtube and there are loads of videos about how to do it, but I can't
find one that tells me when.
I've got the correct root stocks already well rooted and growing in large pots.
Any advice gratefully received.
Anytime now :icon_cheers:..and sooner the better. I've got some grafting to do too but I'm waiting this freezing weather to pass. As soon as the temperatures are set above freezing for longer than odd day or two I'm going to get mine going. My rootstocks are potted in cold GH..but even there the temperature don't get much warmer than outside. Next week is looking promising though... :icon_cheers:
I asked the pruning guy at Brogdale about taking scions from Prunus in Spring and the risk of silverleaf in the parent tree - but he said just do it...
He may have said minor branches are at less risk - I don't remember because I was more interested in asking him if he agreed with the German idea of breaking the branches rather than cutting.
His opinion was 'worth a try'.
I also do this when I'm late pruning vines and desperate to have a go.
I definitely think the sharp blade is the real problem for both cases.
If you've ever compared a paper cut to a razor cut - one hurts like hell and clots immediately, the other is painless but bleeds forever!
Plants are definitely better off the quicker the wound seals - the real problem fungi attack living tissue not dead.
Cheers.
Me and my advise :confused5:...snow is now melting, positively dripping everywhere and we've got beauuuutiful sun shine. Couldn't help but go out and see what is happening...and while I was there...I did my grafting, couldn't help myself :toothy5:
But, the buds where showing some signs of waking up..honestly...they were teeny weeny bigger than last week :icon_cheers:
My new grafting secateurs got out of box and what a pleasure they were to use...it was SO EASY to get properly fitting joints, just like jigsaw puzzle pieces :toothy10: Now it is just waiting game and fingers crossed that most of them take.
OH...hurry up spring! :blob7:
Edit to add.. My grafting wood source is undercover as are the potted rootstocks..so I don't have any issue with diseases as such. But with outdoor stock, re;silverleaf..I would dust the cut surfaces that are left 'open' on parent tree with woodash. I have used woodash for years on many occasions and never had any trouble with 'problems' afterwards. Its safe to use for both..me and the tree (what ever tree is pruned) and can be used any time of the year too. Few years ago I found out when I had to do some heavy pruning for client's magnolia (doesn't appreciate heavy chopping)..most of the cut surfaces that I was able to reach had some wood ash...and they healed beautifully, and those that didn't get it, were slower to grow callus and the some of those did eventually get bit of fungal 'stuff' on surface. Now I use wood ash regularly when ever I chop woody growth.
Thanks for the replies, very helpful.
I never thought I would be so happy to see rain, but yesterday evening
we had quite a lot and all the snow has gone :toothy10: I haven't been
to the allotments for over a week so I'm really looking forward to going
today.
Grafting secateurs?
Where did you get those; I want to teach my students grafting but some can't hold the knife at all so if I can do it with secateurs I'll get a pair...have you got a linkie?
I've just found 'grafting tool' - excellent! They should be able to do that easy.
Thank you so much!!!
I've got these.. http://www4.westfalia.net/shops/gardening/cutting_and_pruning/pruning_the_trees_and_fruit_trees/tree_and_fruit_tree_shears/693214-grafting_shears.htm
Excellent - thanks
:blob7:
(//)
These are my rootstocks today. I know it's a stupid question, but am I supposed
to remove all the side branches and graft onto the main stem? And if so, how many
buds should be grafted?
Quote from: goodlife on January 27, 2013, 09:33:12
I've got these.. http://www4.westfalia.net/shops/gardening/cutting_and_pruning/pruning_the_trees_and_fruit_trees/tree_and_fruit_tree_shears/693214-grafting_shears.htm
I've just looked at something on Youtube which might be similar to this - if so, it looks really
easy to do. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=fvg1WkFhPyI
Is this what yours is like?
Aim to cut into the main 'trunk'. Match the thickness of your craft wood to the cutting. You should have about 4-8" of the main stem left for the craft...though 6-8" is better so that the craft has plenty of clearance from the ground level.
All those branches on rootstocks are growth to keep the rootstock alive and growing...the new graft will hopefully provide the canopy in future.
The rootstock will try to grow new branches bellow the craft..as they start come out, rub them off with your fingers and eventually the 'eyes' will stop growing.
Quote from: Squash64 on January 27, 2013, 13:31:31
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I've just looked at something on Youtube which might be similar to this - if so, it looks really
easy to do. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=fvg1WkFhPyI
Is this what yours is like?
Yes..the cutting action is more and less same although the secateurs look bit different. Those on youtube are professional quality and cost about £40-50 and the one I have is cheaper, amateur version...but they still did a good job. I suspect if one would be doing lot of crafting the cheaper version would not last long. But to use few times a year they will last for me years :icon_cheers:
Just noticed that mine does have 5 year guarantee...so they should last for years :icon_cheers:
http://www4.westfalia.net/shops/gardening/cutting_and_pruning/pruning_the_trees_and_fruit_trees/tree_and_fruit_tree_shears/693214-grafting_shears.htm
Quote from: goodlife on January 27, 2013, 14:41:59
Aim to cut into the main 'trunk'. Match the thickness of your craft wood to the cutting. You should have about 4-8" of the main stem left for the craft...though 6-8" is better so that the craft has plenty of clearance from the ground level.
All those branches on rootstocks are growth to keep the rootstock alive and growing...the new graft will hopefully provide the canopy in future.
The rootstock will try to grow new branches bellow the craft..as they start come out, rub them off with your fingers and eventually the 'eyes' will stop growing.
Thanks.
Do I just graft one bud on the side of the trunk, or into the cut top?
You can graft cherries and plums either bud grafting or with whip-and-tongue method..there is little differences to those methods..so you need to decide what you are going to do before starting chopping your root stocks.
But yes, generally/usually one does do one craft per stem...unless you are planning multiple varieties per tree...then you don't cut all of those little branches off from the rootstocks.
Whip and tongue is perharps most common and does tend to take easier than budding.
What type of grafting did you have in your mind?
I have to amend this a little;
QuoteThe rootstock will try to grow new branches bellow the craft..as they start come out, rub them off with your fingers and eventually the 'eyes' will stop growing.
I allow any new growth from the rootstock to stay on until I'm sure that the craft has taken and some leaves have appeared from it.
Once the craft is safe..then I start rubbing' the growth off from the rootstock. If the craft haven't taken ..with the new growth on the rootstock can be 'saved' and grafted if the conditions still allow that year, other wise it can carry on growing another year and crafted later date.
Quote from: goodlife on January 27, 2013, 17:22:18
You can graft cherries and plums either bud grafting or with whip-and-tongue method..there is little differences to those methods..so you need to decide what you are going to do before starting chopping your root stocks.
But yes, generally/usually one does do one craft per stem...unless you are planning multiple varieties per tree...then you don't cut all of those little branches off from the rootstocks.
Whip and tongue is perharps most common and does tend to take easier than budding.
What type of grafting did you have in your mind?
Whip and tongue seems a bit less fiddly than the other, I'll try that.
Thanks for all your help.
One last question (hopefully)
what do you use to bind the graft?
I use grafting tape around the joints and some melted bees wax to seal the cut end of the craft wood.
Shall I send you some? ..I've got plenty of spare...
Quote from: goodlife on January 28, 2013, 19:14:38
I use grafting tape around the joints and some melted bees wax to seal the cut end of the craft wood.
Shall I send you some? ..I've got plenty of spare...
That's very kind of you, thank you. :happy7:
I'll pm you,
I've grafted the cherry trees today, hope they 'take'.
When I went to cut some plum branches to graft onto my root stock I noticed that many buds
had started to open. Does this mean it's too late?
My grafting secateurs arrived today - just had a play and wowsers!!! The students are going to love these. And I worked with the gardens team at Ryton yesterday pruning the apples and so have some scions so that my students can all practice and then graft a tree each to take home.
Bazinga.
Thanks so much!!!
Quote from: Squash64 on January 31, 2013, 12:18:23
I've grafted the cherry trees today, hope they 'take'.
When I went to cut some plum branches to graft onto my root stock I noticed that many buds
had started to open. Does this mean it's too late?
Well..if the buds are not actually opened into leaf but just 'cracked', they should still be fine if you get them crafted very soon.