Hi We have an allotment in Brandon, Durham. I wondered if anyone knows of a farm/stables in the vicinity that provide it (either free or at a price). Thanks in advance for any advice.
I don't know of any in your area but if you do find one check if they use weedkiller on their land.
Many farmers are using a product that animals can safely digest, but the dung they produce can contain residues of this weedkiller which can affect your plants!
See here; http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Aminopyralid/Aminopyralid.htm (http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Aminopyralid/Aminopyralid.htm)
Depends on how far you want to travel and if you have a big trailer
You could pack your cossy and make some beach sandwiches and go to Crimdon Dene there is great big pile of it there free.
On the coast the farmers wont deliver as they cant pass another farm with a load of it.
Local knowledge i know of at least 5 Equestrian Schools around Crook and Three in Duham have a google Equestrian schools/centres you may get free stuff there.
Quote from: roxy on August 21, 2012, 11:28:29
Hi We have an allotment in Brandon, Durham. I wondered if anyone knows of a farm/stables in the vicinity that provide it (either free or at a price). Thanks in advance for any advice.
Found an ad for Free horsemuck in Brandon, Durham for you to contact Roxy sent details in pm good luck 8)
Do do a bean test before you spread it anywhere where you will be trying to grow beans, potatoes or tomatoes. Aminopyralid contamination is getting into horse manure supplies due to illegal acts by cattle farmers and it's a heartbreak to deal with..... That said squash doesn't seem to care about it, and sweetcorn and brassicas seem unaffected too...
chrisc
I was wondering if anyone had any idea how long it would take for fresh manure dug in to a plot to break down and be OK to plant? I can get hold of well rotted stuff but a stables nearer my home leaves bags of fresh stuff out and you just return the empty bags. I supppose the other option is to use some to cap my compost before putting the cover on to let it rot down. ???
As I see it if your manure is a bit on the 'fresh' side do as I do; I dig it in in Oct / Nov rather than put it on the compost heap.
This saves double handling it!
That is; What is the difference of it rotting down for around six months on the compost heap, when it can rot down in the soil.
Afterall you are unlikely to planting out into it for at least another four to six months.
In fact as the rotting down process generates heat, I would guess you could say it is warming up the soil, meaning you can get onto it sooner in Spring.
See here;
http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Soil-Preparation/soil%20preparation%20ss.swf (http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Soil-Preparation/soil%20preparation%20ss.swf)
If it is strong enough both courgettes etc and brassicas can show symptoms of AP.
Do not bury it unless you are sure that it is weedkiller free. AP breaks down much better on the surface.
As Chris says do a bean test. I know we keep on about it, but when you suffer and all your crops curl up it is devastating. What is more the compost make from plants grown in it can affect crops the following year even if they show little sign of a problem themselves.
i always test mine after i had load delivered (approx 5 tons) and it was contaminated with Aminopyralid which i didn't know about at the time until it was to late, i had it taken away in the end.
strange thing is people from our allotment have had manure from the same farm for year and it's been ok, I've had 3 more loads and all been fine, farmer swears he's never used Aminopyralid but i have heard even if the farmer uses feed that is contaminated it can get into the manure that way.