My gem rolet are ready to go out, but they are considerably weedy looking, with seed leaves half the size of my other squashes. Is this normal and how they start out in life or are they sad specimens not worth the space? Sown in different batches.
....My Cornell's Delicata either have a kind of 'bloom' on the largest leaves (like on plums) or mildew, they look chalky. Neither has been dry and they were grown in different batches. Again, is that normal?
I only ask because I am now flooded with squashes because I had a lot of problems earlier on getting them going (claggy, award winning compost from B&Q - never again ::) ) and space and manure are limited so if they're not good I won't use them.
Thanks
The plants are smaller than the Delicata and the seed leaves would be too, I can't advise you properly with out a picture but it is amazing how quick they pick up once in good ground.
If the colouring on the leaves of your Delicata is a sort of iridescent glow don't worry about it, it is not uncommon with some varieties even though it might trouble you they will be fine.
If you are stuck for space and have to forgo some I would hang on to the Delicata as they are a super squash.
XX Jeannine
Cheers Jeannine
Quote from: Jeannine on June 04, 2010, 08:20:40
If you are stuck for space and have to forgo some I would hang on to the Delicata as they are a super
I know, I'm mainly growing them on your earlier recommendation :P
One other thing, a couple of squashes have become stressed for whatever reason (pots seem big enough :-\ ) and developed a couple of small immature flowers - are they worth pursuing or not in your opinion? Unfortunately both of my Queensland Blue have just done that whilst waiting to be planted out.
Hi - a couple of my Potimarron's have produced tiny flowers, only planted them today, and I was wondering what to do about them, so I'll sit back and wait for the experts ;) :)
Just ignore the early flowers the plant will be fine, they won't pollinate. XX Jeannine
Hi all
How much room do you need to grow a squash and I guess it would be the same for a pumpkin too?
Have never grown either but a plot holder gave me one of each and wondered where they would do best with limited space now.
Sinbad
I can answer your question if you can tell me what type they are especially the squash, there is a huge difference in space for some. XX Jeannine
Quote from: Jeannine on June 04, 2010, 19:43:27
Just ignore the early flowers the plant will be fine, they won't pollinate. XX Jeannine
I'm so pleased to hear that! The full squash dream is still on then.... (thanks)
Jeannine is the accredited expert here so I would go with her advice
Thanks Jeannine, the squash is a patty pan and the pumpkin just a pumpkin.
Quote from: earlypea on June 04, 2010, 20:35:09
Quote from: Jeannine on June 04, 2010, 19:43:27
Just ignore the early flowers the plant will be fine, they won't pollinate. XX Jeannine
I'm so pleased to hear that! The full squash dream is still on then.... (thanks)
And phew from me too :D I haven't seen this happen before - oh well live and learn!
thanks Jeannine :)
Hi Jeannine,
Your squash knowledge is formidable! I'm sure you've learnt most of it from working hard on your plot, but are there any books you'd suggest?
Issy
Do you know what causes these miniature flowers by any chance? Like 1066 I don't remember having it happen before either.
What I have noticed is that this has happened to two types on the days of our sudden heat waves, so today they've been put out under a bush while I went to work and no new occurrences.
Is that it?
Sinbad, your pattypan is a summer squash treat it like a courgette for growing and harvesting. It will be a bush plant and will not grow long vines. Mature spread will cover about 3 foot x3foot, this will be large leaves, the squash will be nestled in the centre. Fruit could be white, pale green, bright yellow or even multicoloured depending on the variety of pattypan( a term used a bit like Hoover for vacuum cleaners) there is a variety actually called Pattypan though.
Pumpkin..just a pumpkin !! Well pumpkins can be anything from the size of an apple to something that would need a wheelbarrow to move it..so let is presume it is a Halloween Jack or Lantern type.
The bit growing in the ground is not much, but it will send out vines that can grow to 30 feet, so be prepared to place the plant where you can direct the vine. You can train it to the side of a path, across a lawn or though corn plants or fruit bushes..or just let it go if you have lots of room, it will grow long and put out lots of big leaves whatever you do.
Issy, the best book I know about squash is Amy Goldmans Book called The Compleat Squash(her spelling) Try the library before you buy..it is expensive but the pictures are superb. It is written for the US though and the growing conditions are different plus Amy has unlimited space and money so some of her ideas are not too realistic for small growers, but it is a great book for a Christmas wish list. There are others but I find they are quickly out of date for varieties.I have been interested..besotted actually by squash for many years and as with any interest , we tend to collect info from all over.
I don't have a technical answer for the small flowers but it is generally thought caused by stress,we see it when plants are still in their pots and being held back before being planted out , usually because of the weather, the plants feel in jeopardy and need to reproduce. The first flowers on squash and pumpkins are always male and they will fall off...aahh no probs more will soon arrive followed by the ladies. Females have a real tiny bulge at the base which is an unpollinated squash, the boys don't. The unpollinated ones will fall off, the pollinated ones bulge will begin to grow.. You can eat squash flowers by the way, large ones can be stuffed small ones tossed in a salad, even if they have tiny fruit on you can use them, they are all edible.
Have fun..
XX Jeannine
Many thanks for your reply Jeannine. Delighted with the answer for the pattypan but a bit amazed about the pumpkin.
I did plant them both and gave plenty of room to the pattypan but thought I would plant the pumpkin in the bed with the cucumbers and they could gallop away together but by the sound of it my poor cue's are going to get overtaken by the pumpkin. At least the cue's have a head start so probably all is not lost.
Sinbad
All the maximas:- pumpkins, buttercups etc will pretty much swamp any moschata, agyrosperma or pepo except for those that can climb up something to escape it. Few maximas climb though some hybrids will, Bon-bon leaps to mind. Let your cucumbers climb some netting and they should survive and crop fine, otherwise, like one of my poor Uchiki Kuri's last year, they are doomed....... Personally I try to give the pumpkins a gouud three feet of exclusion from anything except another pumpkin... the better behaved squashes (all the hybrid moschata butternuts, Winter Festival) can go a lot closer.... There are always exceptions though, there's a whole load of aggressive italian moschata's I could see outgrowing most pumpkins short of a monster like Sumo or Atlantic Giant.... Violine, Tromboncino, Tromba di Albenga and Lunga di Napoli all leap to mind..... all but the last climb happily, and Lunga is a monster of a squash, tips the scales at over 50lb regularly, IIRC the biggest moschata by a fair distance
chrisc
Quote from: chriscross1966 on June 07, 2010, 04:59:57
.....and Lunga is a monster of a squash, tips the scales at over 50lb regularly, IIRC the biggest moschata by a fair distance
chrisc
The size of the leaves on mine are already monsterous - dwarfing anything else in sight! I'm going to sit back and watch with interest and intrepidation!!
1066
I plant my pumpkins so they can trail down the sides of the plot, or around the compost box :) As the foliage dies off, the plot will have started to empty and you can tuck the fruit into the plot to mature.
I grow Queensland Blue, Do grow one or two, because they are extra-tasty and the fruits last a log time in storage.
May I add another question please ;)
I have read that pumpkins/squash and potatoes do not grow well next to each other - has anyone got any experience of this?
I have more plants - Thelma Saunders and Twonga to go in, but there is only space next to the spuds......do I take the risk and hope I get a good crop or try to find space elsewhere?
Chiris, you post has puzzled me, I am sorry to contradict you but apart from a couple of exceptions squash and pumpkins actually don't climb, they can be trained upright but are not climbers as such, they don't grab and hang on.
Not all the maximas are large and some do have shorter vines.
The other point is most of the pumpkins are not in the maxima family, they are pepo,examples are Jack o Lanterns , Howden and Conneticut Field , these three also happen to be the most commercial grown types, the ones you will see in the shops for carving and most easily recognised as pumpkins.
Atlantic Giant is a maxima, produced way back from Jaune de Paris as all maxima pumpkins are but apart from a few and their AKA's most people are growing pumkins from the pepo family.
You mention distance too which is the biggest downfall to newbies, crowding will decrease yeild by producing less female flowers, with one or two exceptions , accepted distance for best yeild is 10 feet, I cramped down to 6 feet and managed to get reasonable yield in the UK but prior to going over there I gave my plants the space they needed and got excellent results. In the UK I managed to get many late varieties to maturity in Hull when my neighbours could not, this was by not cramping too much, I used 4 feet for bush types when ideal is 6 feet. I realise that most of us don't have the space for growing them at correct distances but newbies need to know that production will be lower.If folks are able to give the correct spacings and therefore giving the plant sufficient nourishment from roots, sun on eaves etc , they will get better yeild, less immature fruit at harvest, larger friut and much less disease. Mildew is delayed and the plant as more chance to finish. I have read many times here about poor yeild, small fruit, plants being unableto reach maturity, and am convinced it is the planting distances.
Tin Shed, I am not aware of many really important problems that potatoes and squash have together other than scab , the virus of which affects the squash leaves , I guess it may go down to potato tubers,however I never saw this in the UK on any of my plants. One consideration if the squash leaves covered the potato leaves this might make a canopy effect that would hold moistureand may encourage blight in your spuds. Plus they are both heavy feeders.
Thelma Saunders is an acorn squash and doesn't grow very big, 2 pounds or so , a few of the acorns are an exception and will grow on closer planting distance, but they will vine still and need space to run, closer spacing is a reason why many people grow them plus it's excellent taste. I would however plant them in a row and then train the vines to all grow in ths same direction as if running to a finish line..does that make sense!
XX Jeannine
Jeannine, you are a star - I was hoping you would reply :D
The potatoes and squash would be about 1 metre apart and I was thinking of perhaps putting somethimg between them - beans or corn perhaps - to provide some sort of barrier if they don't grow well together.
Do you think I would be able to train the Thelma Saunders up a trellis supporting the fruit as it grows?
Jeannine, with the spacing of 10' is that between 2 pumpkins or between a pumpkin and any other plant?
My 2 cucumbers are in an 18' x 4'6" bed with just a quick growing row of lettuce in front of them, at the front of the bed, where the cue's are growing up at the back of the bed. I planted the pumpkin about 4' away from the cue's in the middle of the bed, do you think I should move the pumpkin?
I'm training the cue's up fencing but I do tend to go to pot and they end up going everywhere, so knowing the gardener I am and when it gets hot I let all my plants do their own thing I am wondering if it would be better off somewhere else to start with.
The Patty Pan should be fine as I am hoping the broad beans will nearly be finished before it gets going so can have nearly a whole bed to itself.
Tin Shed, you can train both those up a trellis, just tie it in as it grows. The Thelma Saunders vine will grow about 8 to 10 feet, not certain about the Twonga but it is one considered OK for trellis so should be similar..not certain re length of vines on this one though.
Personally I wouldn't plant anything in between, they would be competing for nourishment..definatly not corn if you are growing upright because of the light, maybe a row of dwarf beans right at the far edge. I would guess your soil is in pretty good condition though and if quick growing beans you might have them out quite quickly.
Sinbad, between pumpkins. No, don't move it, keep an eye on it and turn it away from where you don't want it to grow, I would let it run down the side length of your long bed, if it gets to the bottom, turn the leader around and let it grow back.
Pattypan will be fine,, just a widespread bush. I plant several in a row 4 feet apart.. pick them when they are small, they can get to be quite big and they get fat to but not as tasty, and you won't get as many if you don't keep them picked. I start at about 1 1/2 to 2 ins and pick part of the stem with them, then cut through the middle and the stem as well in 1 cut, baby squash cost a fortune in the shops, plants will immediately produce more flowers..but will stop if you don't pick.. look daily they can swell up very very fast.
XX Jeannine
Jeannine, dwarf french beans I think are the answer - off to biscuit tin containing the bean collection to choose ;D
Thank you
Many thanks for your help Jeannine.
Sinbad
Quote from: Jeannine on June 07, 2010, 18:59:05
You mention distance too which is the biggest downfall to newbies, crowding will decrease yeild by producing less female flowers, with one or two exceptions , accepted distance for best yeild is 10 feet, I cramped down to 6 feet and managed to get reasonable yield in the UK but prior to going over there I gave my plants the space they needed and got excellent results. In the UK I managed to get many late varieties to maturity in Hull when my neighbours could not, this was by not cramping too much, I used 4 feet for bush types when ideal is 6 feet. I realise that most of us don't have the space for growing them at correct distances but newbies need to know that production will be lower.If folks are able to give the correct spacings and therefore giving the plant sufficient nourishment from roots, sun on eaves etc , they will get better yeild, less immature fruit at harvest, larger friut and much less disease. Mildew is delayed and the plant as more chance to finish. I have read many times here about poor yeild, small fruit, plants being unableto reach maturity, and am convinced it is the planting distances.
XX Jeannine
Jeannine, thank you for such an informative post! What you say about distances is really interesting. For example you read all these books etc and they say give them 3ft or 1 metre, which is roughly what I did. I got lovely crops, which did ripen fully but I didn't get a bumper crop. So most plants gave me 2 or 3 pumpkins not the 4 or 5 the books tell you. So your theory about distances, which are significantly bigger than I've read before sounds a good un to me.
Mind you I did have plenty of pumpkins last year - and they lasted us well throughout the winter, so no complaints from me :) But it's always nice to learn new stuff :)
Once again thanks for taking the time to share your experiences and knowledge :D
1066
Trouble is, the UK seed companies don't give enough info on squash, it is the same with corn.Sometimes it is like pulling hen's teeth trying to get info from them and there are so many variations, bush, trailing, (which gives the impression it will climb it grown upright,)semi trailing, open bush,they also give the impression that all pumpkins are big and long, that all winter squash vine..neither is true, they all have theor own needs and spacing, I quote what is the best for yeild but even cheat when I plant as te space is rarely available,but if folks know what is ideal they can make an educated adaption. I get really cross when I read some of the descriptions regarding edibility too. T&M describe Turks Turban as having an excellent taste..you can eat it and with added flavourings it will make decent soup,but basically it is an ornamental. I taste test mine just plain baked or steamed, and if you have room for only one this is important.Gourds are usually described as decorative yet some are very edible. Butternut is not the name of a squash but a variety like acorn or kabocha, there a dozens of varieties of butternut and to complicate things still further some are trailing some are bush and some semi trailing. I guess that in the scheme of things squash and corn are realively new to home growing in the UK, I just get annoyed when insufficient info causes losses or wastes a season, especially when they push a type that clearly would struggle in the UK without special treatment..
Getting off soap box now.
XX Jeannine
Quote from: Jeannine on June 08, 2010, 16:32:09
but if folks know what is ideal they can make an educated adaption.
I think that sums it up nicely Jeannine :) And if it wasn't for sites like this then I know I'd have struggled much more than I have. At least on here I stand a good chance of getting accurate information from experienced growers!
And I know what you mean about Turks Turban being described as an eater ::) Anyway, I think its healthy to get on your soap box (every now and then) ;)
Wow Im so glad i just read about Turks Turban not being that good to eat.....was planning to buy some at a plant sale this week & dont want to give the prescious allotment space to something that isnt going to be super tasty!
Jeannine could you possibly give me a short list of say the top 5 in your opinion for tastiness? I would very much appreciate it ;D
Im learning so much from this thread, thank you so much
My personal winter squash favourites mmm well..some from delicata family,that is, Delicata,Sugar Loaf,Sweet Dumpling, all pretty much the same for taste and size although shape is different .
I am very fond of the blues which are mostly Australian, Blue Magic, Blue Ballet, Queensland Blue,Triamble,,but not Jarrahdale it doesn't have the flavour of the others for me.Also blue and good is Guatamalen Blue and Sibleys AKA Pikes Peak.The Australian blues can be smallish or huge depending on the variety although many of them have had smaller versions made over the years eg Blue ballet is a scaled down version of Blue Hubbard.
The Japanese Kabocha types are also very good and example would be Sunshine.
Plus the odd one here and there. eg Red Kuri, Potimarron, and an Acorn one called Honey Bear.
I am not a big lover of butternuts, many are extremely good but I found them really variable in the Uk so I rarely grew them while there and went for something more consistent. However they are readily available and worth growing as some of them are now in bush form and take up a much smaller space and they are good keepers.
For Pumpkins, I no longer grow the big decorative ones but I do grow them for pumpkin pie, variety is important so I prefer Sugar Pie or bay Pam which are not stringy and are very sweet and dense.
Summer squash which includes the courgettes my first choice streets ahead of the others is the Lebanese "cousa types" of courgette eg Magda and then I like the old Yellow Crookneck variety of summer squash.
Hope this helps.
Xx Jeannine
Thank you so very much Jeannine I really appreciate you taking the time to give such a detailed reply. Im going to hunt for seeds for some of the ones you mention & look forward to next years squash growing experiment on my allotment ;D
This is only my 3rd year growing veggies. Im growing green & yellow courgettes, the orangey skinned butternut squash & pattypan this year but would really like to be more adventurous next year. I dont have a very big plot but may have a year off from growing potatoes next year to allow alot more space for squash beds.
xJane
Let me know if you get stuck, I have pretty much all of the seeds I mentioned and you have to try the cousa one for sure XX Jeannine
I'd 2nd trying the lebanese types - if I'm thinking of the right one that is! Mine are white, very subtle and delicate in flavour, and a firm favourite in this house :)
The Mazda cousa courgette is very pale green with white speckles and is not long , a more tapered squat blunt ended one. It is used for a special Lebanese dish called Kousa .My best friend here comes from Lebanese stock and she says the true one is green. The texture is a a bit more dense and dry than a regular courgette She does tell me about a white marrow though,could well be a longer grown courgette, but I do also have seeds for a Lebanese marrow which is creamy white.
You can see the seeds and pictures at Vesey's in Canada or Johnny's in the US, sorry I don't have the links.
XX Jeannine
yes it sounds very similar - and I've just had to google the recipe for Kousa, sounds delicious :)
Would you like a few Kousa XX Jeannine
this has been an incredibly interesting and informative thread.
I almost hesitate to ask, but since none of my really stoopid questions elicited naught but kindness and good advice before...........................gulp.....
Can I grow my courgettes in large pots if I keep them well watered and fed????
I'm growing Black Beauty, PattyPan, yellow scallop, golden zuchini and Di Nizza. It's an experiment and taste test year for me and I'll have plenty of excess for neightbours and friends no doubt! It's a question of space, as I've kept the last two raised beds I just built for my wintersquashes (crown prince and hoooligan kindly donated from you guys!!!)
They are 50 litre pots
Great thread, guys! I've had some luck with some of the French types over here in southeast UK, Musquee de Provence in particular seemed to really enjoy my plot. I agree with jeannine on the space thing - squashes need and want their space, so give it to them, along with tons of water and a heapload of manure. Unlike jeannine, I've had some good luck with the butternuts, I think the Waltham's a good one.
As for patty pans, love them. I tend to stuff them with couscous and veggies, add a bit of cheese and roast the lot. Yum.
I got my Lebanese courgette seeds from a mixed pack of Johnson seeds in Wilkinsons - and thoroughly recommend them as they are the perfect shape for stuffing!
Actually I think basic Waltham's butternut is the perhaps the best of the butternuts. There are so many that have been grown from this one but I think in this case the phrase"if it ain't broke ,don't fix it" is very apt. I can see why breeders would try to make a better butternut eg bush, better disease resistant, longer keeping,shorter season etc but I think like the tomato growers who have gone for much the same changes they have lost taste in the process. So good old Walthams in my opinion is far better for tatse than Barbara, Harrier , Hunter etc...if I do grow a butternut, this is the one, it is reliable, consistent, grows well, keeps well and the taste is better than the newer ones .
Wilder, yes you can grow your bush courgettes in pots, you may not get the yeild that you would from the ground but with correct watering and a feed or two they will produce well. I grow them in very big pots..5 qallon old buckets or half barrells.
XX Jeannine
TinShed - I think I have the same packet 8)
Jeannine - what a kind offer! I've been having a nosey and found that RealSeeds do a Coussa called 'White Volunteer' Cousa Courgette http://www.realseeds.co.uk/courgettes.html . It sounds similar. Do you think these are the same?
I seem to remember a thread on here a while ago where white courgettes were discussed and purchased! I'm also growing the Cavili - another pale one (new for this year - to me that is!)
The cousa one that is to make the lebanese dish called Kousa is definatley pale gree sprckled with white, yu have to be careful as it has a very differnt meat that others ,
Just looked at thelink, they atfirst appear white but they say thre are actually a very pale green, and the picture looks right
XX Jeannine
in that case I may take you up on your kind offer - will pm you
1066 :)
You are welcome. The ones in your picture are a cousa type definately and are OP, the ones I currently have are a hybrid called Magda. I am having to use it again this year because the seeds I originally had were an old kept family one from way back ,I had run out and I needed them quickly.
Might be good to grow both.
I have intended dehybridising my one for the past three years, but never got around to it, I still am using the original 2007 seeds,I wanted to try to get an OP back but the one in the picture might well be it anyway so next year I will send for some of them and compare..
XX Jeannine
that sounds like a great plan Jeannine, and as I have gone ahead and ordered the Coussa from Real Seeds (along with a few other bits and bobs ::) ) I'll be able to send you some to try
1066 :)
1066 - are you planning to get that Realseeds Coussa in for this season?
I must say you've both been driving me mad with all this talk of Coussas - if they're better than a crookneck then that's really saying something and it's a must have and eat item.
If you think it's feasible for this year then I will also buy a coussa from Realseeds now :D Some potatoes are surely coming up soon, plenty of room for a small one...
May I add another question? We have planted butternut (free seeds from Dig in). I have heard that they might not do well in the North-East of England. Has anyone managed to grow them successfully up here, and if so, do you have any tips?
I had no problem in Hull, unless it was a bad cold year and then everything suffered.
Did they tell you which butternut they are some are early some late and some are bush, some vining?
XX Jeannine
Go for it Early pea,if Realseeds are quick, I would phone it in, they are a summer squash so don't need a long season, mine were only seeded about two weeks ago, went out with just first leaves and 1 almost real one on Monday. If you have a bad summer you will only be out a couple of seeds, don't sow a lot, they are quite prolific.
XX Jeannine
Unfortunately, speed is not Realseeds' greatest virtue. Maybe I should make do for this year and not be so greedy ;D. I've got pattipans to go in as the spuds are lifted and I do like a nice pattipan.
I also have a Kamo Kamo which is sizeable already and that's another one they do say is 'even better than a crookneck'. I'm curious, did you ever grow that Jeannine?
Hi,at first I was going to say no ( I think I have been asked before ) as it is not a regular one I grow.I often grow a new one as a trial but sometimes don't grow it again for a while. I looked back and found notes in a book from 2005 . I have only grown it once. I fancied it as it is a dual purpose squash, can be used as a summer when young or a winter when mature, my thoughts were that if a bad summer it would be still useful, it did mature, just checked my page on it and have written in the comments box....
"Blimey,hard to say the least, nearly chopped my thumb off!" Opened at 7 months in store.Smaller than I expected, attractive ribbed fruit,good taste, would grow again but give it much more room, possibly why small size.From Jayne Morris, New Zealand.
Seeds were sent from a swapper friend in NZ..Still have them but it didn't make the cut this year as I have some other rare ones which took priority. I have to grow those as I need to harvest seed from this year and very little space now.
Are you growing it as a summer squash , comparing to crookneck and cousa?
Thinking about it after reading my notes, I remember it well, we almost dropped it from the bedroom window, it was very difficult to crack, but sadly I didn't write any notes on the taste of it eaten as a summer squash.
Good luck with it, I hope you have a spare field.
Not much help, sorry
XX Jeannine
I am growing crookneck for the first time this year, and am growing them up a metal trellis. I understand you can treat it as a summer squash but is it true you can treat it as a winter squash also. At what size do you pick it as a summer squash as i do not want to pick it when it is too tough. sorry for the questions but was given the seeds in a swap
Quote from: gwynnethmary on June 16, 2010, 09:55:06
May I add another question? We have planted butternut (free seeds from Dig in). I have heard that they might not do well in the North-East of England. Has anyone managed to grow them successfully up here, and if so, do you have any tips?
Are they the squash seeds from last years Dig In? If so they are Hunter. I grew them and they did very well.
Quote from: Jeannine on June 17, 2010, 08:07:45
Are you growing it as a summer squash , comparing to crookneck and cousa?
Jeannine - Exactly that, yes. So, you didn't remember the taste of the immature version. The rave reviews (on NZ websites) I've come across are for that - I didn't see any particularly favourable reports of the mature squash.
Basically, I grew crooknecks last year for the first time and everyone was so wowed by them. Described as a 'revelation' by my brother-in-law who mixes in top foodie circles :P so I thought I'd explore other winter squashes eaten at the immature stage. No-one here really likes courgettes, apart from the first few, they rot in the fridge which is why I'm excited by the Coussa now because that would be earlier and sounds most edible!
Lottiedolly - apparantly Crooknecks don't keep well as a winter squash or so I was told last year by an American (they're common place there) when I asked the same question.
I think they're best eaten when they are still fairly smooth and a pale, creamy yellow as they mature they get nobbly and darker yellow (still quite nice like that though!).
e.g. this stage
(http://www.healthy-recipes-for-kids.com/images/CrookneckSquash.jpg)
rather than this, more advanced stage
(http://www.thenibble.com/reviews/main/vegetables/images/crookneck-squash-230.jpg)
Lottiedolly, if you are growing straight neck or crookeck, from the pepo family, bright yellow with bumps on them then no, they are a summer squash but... if you are growing Pennslylvanian Crook neck AKA Neck squash then still no but they area winter squash, this where the confusion come id , they are tan and related to butternuts. The summer crookneck will kep better than a courgette but it will not keep like a winter Eraly pea is is a summer squash
this thread is truly wonderful :)
Sorry EarlyPea I've been off-line. And yes I did go ahead and order ;D. I wasn't planning on doing any this year, but as you say I MUST have some space (the Mayans are looking good BTW ;) ) . So I think I will - would you like some seeds?
Quote from: Jeannine on June 17, 2010, 08:07:45
I remember it well, we almost dropped it from the bedroom window, it was very difficult to crack,
XX Jeannine
priceless! I remember reading a Madhur Jaffrey recipe/story where she did the same ;D