I have an apple tree that I need to move over the next few weeks. I know it's a really bad time to do it but I don't have any choice. Is there any chance it will survive? Does anyone have any tips? I read that I need to cut the roots at 18inches around the base, do i need to prune the top too? It's quite tall 15 feet or so but one of those really thin/narrow ones so it grows straight up.
When you move it dig the root ball as big as you are able to...bigger the better..and before setting it into new position, flood the new planting hole so that is like a pond...then 'drop' the tree in and flood it again...if you have a piece of guttering pipe, drop it in and back fill the soil around the root ball..the guttering pipe is for further watering..twice a month or so pour few watering can fulls into pipe..water gets straight into where it is needed..don't bother watering on soil as it will never reach the roots..
I would not allow the tree to set any fruit this year..even if it tries..it will need all the energy for establishing to new location.
Application of bonemeal will help formation of new roots..mix few handfuls of this when planting..
I would not do much chopping now as it is stressfull enough for the tree..the moisture is the most important thing. If however later on some branches look really sorry or die prune those but otherwise I would leave it until next year...
...Normally when 'mature' trees and shrubs are moved the top growth is reduced too..but if you do this to a fruit tree..it will take several years to get the tree back into order and it will effect the fruiting...it is almost like starting all over again...
But if you are diligent and keep the rootball and the surrounding soil moist there is good chance that your tree will not get much disturbed and you will avoid drastic pruning and retraining again... ;)
Oh and good mulch around tree will keep the moisture in... ;)
Thank you. That gives me a little hope that it might survive ! Roughly how big would i need the new hole to be? I need to get that prepared before I dig up the tree.
The tree is also really near next doors fence, this will affect how much rootball i can dig up too.
I should just get the tree up first and then see how large the hole needs to be..which ever way ..larger the better..you can always later on trim the root ball a bit more if you find that you cannot dig big enough hole for it ..but while you are digging the hole..do spray the rootball with water and wrap it up so it doesn't dry too much while you working...and it gives you chance to have a cup of tea without having to rush with the job... ;)
The tree was moved yesterday. It all went pretty well i think. I'll let you know how it gets on - have been watering as much as possible. fingers crossed !!
well done..did you manage to do it without now having a bad back?
Not a bad back, but my OH clonked his head with the tree trunk. It looked scary for a minute but it was a tiny scratch once the blood was cleared up!
Goodlife - you seem to be the expert on this - I also have to move two Bramley Apple and a pear tree but no rush, so was planning to do it this winter. I've been panicking because I'm not sure how deeply I'll be able to dig to get the roots out and worried that cutting the tap root would do them in anyway. Is it safe to cut the tap root?
These trees are three years old but less than 6 ft high. I keep them short so that I can reach the fruit. I've done the same to 2 plum trees in my back garden and it doesn't seem to affect the amount of fruit i get off them.
Just lift them with as much root as possible. I've lifted trees that size in winter, and replanted them without the slightest problem.
Yep..just like Robert said..good thing doing in winter is that drying out should not be problem..just don't try when there is good frost in forecast.. ::)
Fruit trees don't have a taproot...not in that sence..they will have few thicker roots but when you come across these use loppers or secateurs to through them cleanly..