That time of year again and with all the new people joining A4A it's time to pass on a tip or two. Here's my Tommy one -
remove the stem shown.
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...add your tips.
why do you cut off that much? thanks.
To add to above if the side shoot is bigger ,remove ,let it root in water,pot up and you have a new plant.
oooh dear, he means only cut off that side stem, on the left of the plant. Not the top bit :-\
It helps produce more fruit, in a nutshell.
Tim had a brilliant lot of photos last year about trimming tomato plants, if anyone wants to search that thread.
Err, haven't sown mine yet, so no trimming for quite some weeks...
A tip? To tie up your tomato plants to their stakes, use strips of old stockings. The elastic in them ensures that the plant has room to grow.
Also string / wire rubs the stems and creates a weak spot where infection can get in.
LOL antipodes, i thought he was chopping the plant in half!!!!
sideshoots, i knew that one, dad said about that!!
If you can ...
Hang taught strings down from a frame or (GH) roof. and wind the plants around the string clockwise (if anti they just unwind themselves)
Its a lot, lot quicker than tying bits of string or tights.
Bury one end of the string when you plant the tomato. Loosely tie the other end up where convenient and the plant can be just hooked to the string by a leaf as it grows.
Quote from: Pesky Wabbit on March 07, 2008, 22:30:31
If you can ...
Hang taught strings down from a frame or (GH) roof. and wind the plants around the string clockwise (if anti they just unwind themselves)
Its a lot, lot quicker than tying bits of string or tights.
Does this work with both determinate and indeterminate vines? Sounds like a great idea.
Thanks for the tips - thought it seemed a bit drastic to cut the thing in half. Don't think I could have done that with out having a wee turn.
So are you recommending not to stake them? Just to use string to provide support?
QuoteSo are you recommending not to stake them? Just to use string to provide support?
Not really, its all about convenience. String needs something to be tied to and is not always practical. A suitable stick will work and is normally the only way if grown outside. Bush types may require additional support depending on type.
If you are planting on the allotment ...
1) bury upside down, next to each plant, a 2ltr milk bottle that has had the base cut off, ... these allow you to feed your plants where the food is needed!!
2) plant each tom with some comfrey in the bottom of the hole - time delayed feed. you can also lay comfrey on the soil to create mulch and stop soil from drying out! ;)
Quote from: Pesky Wabbit on March 07, 2008, 22:30:31
If you can ...
Hang taught strings down from a frame or (GH) roof. and wind the plants around the string clockwise (if anti they just unwind themselves)
Its a lot, lot quicker than tying bits of string or tights.
Its how its done by the professional growers. But you do need the frame to start off with. The beams in a polytunnel are ideal.
And no - there are no sticks involved.
Quote from: GrannieAnnie on March 08, 2008, 16:44:34
Does this work with both determinate and indeterminate vines?
Yes. Anything that needs support.
Maybe a silly question - but do they wind anti-clockwise in the southern hemisphere? Thinking of water going down the plug hole ??? Know some members are from down South.
Absolutly no idea.
If you use parasine heaters, they tend to rust and leek after a while so here is my tip. Put them in a plastic bucket and seal round the rim
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/stumpinsci/Picture.jpg)
Sorry i meant to put the above in Top Tips
where do you get comfry from? not seen it anywhere yet? please? (sorry still very new! was hoping poundlands tommy feed would suffice!)
Use pieces of venetian blind fro plant markers, it cuts easily, doesn't rot and you can wrote on it with pencil ot felt tip. Both aluminium or plastic work.
Planting:
I cut the bottom out of 10/12" plastic pots. I dig a hole in the g'house border to half the depth and put the pot in it.
I add a couple of handfulls of rotted manurein the bottom and a cane firmly into the ground through the pot. Then the compost and the plant which I 'bury' almost up to the first leaves.
I put two rows down each border, staggered so I can reach the plants at the back.
Crossways I fasten more canes to the uprights. To these I fasten the truuses as they grow. This method will support any weight you're likely to get.
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Leggy Tom's?
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Re-pot them deeper.
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The tenderest part of a Tomato plant is the growing tip, so when you are removing the suckers always leave the top sucker on, so if you accidently snap off the growing tip you can grow the sucker on to get more fruit.
If you accidently break the stem of a tomato try taping it back together with a bit of support it will heel itself and grow on