I'm sure I've seen (somewhere, sometime ???) some step-by-step photos of how to pinch out the side shoots on tomatoes.
Can anyone help me and give me the link???
Thanks
Linda.
seem to think that Tim did a tutorial recently???
No need.
Just look at the shoots coming from the stem/leaf junction & PINCH THEM OUT!!
But always make sure that there is a flower truss above them.
I think Tims picture is clearer than mine but you are welcome to have a look;
(http://tinyurl.com/yobl4v)
I have sooo many tomatoes planted out some side shoots have taken off without me noticing! what do the experts do then? risk infection or just leave them?
I can't speak for everyone but I take them off
Tim - why do you need to ensure that there is a flower truss above ? I've been pinching out willy-nilly as soon as I see a side shoot forming - am I doing it wrong ?
Thanks everyone. I needed the piccies to show someone at work whose a complete novice ;). I'm sure I remember seeing a series of photos and step-by-step instructions but I've searched and I can't find them (must have dreamt them!!)
Anyway, thanks for your help.
Linda.
Because, mc, if there's no truss above, it might be the leader? Just my thinking.
We're speaking here of CORDON plants.
Oh, & Sideshoots out, even if 3' tall, as they can be!! Dust wit Sulphur if you're worried.
Never had a problem with removing even the largest of side shoots, (re disease etc.) but I must say (and it's probably just me being greedy), that I am always loath to remove any that have already set flowers or fruit, and just tie them in.
I do realise however that the plant is then putting more energy into the growth of the new shoots, rather than developing the fruit that is already there, so maybe I should just "bite the bullet" and remove them regardless?
Yes!
I did re plant the extra bit one year and had loads of extra "free"tomato planats that came obviously a little later.
:) :)
Sulphur idea great Tim, dont like the idea of leaving the wound unattended!!
So, you pinch out all the side shoots. Where do the flowers come from then (having never grown toms before), further up?
Start here - I'll come back later! http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=30916.0
I wanted to know the same thing - if you look at the following site it shows a clear sketch of exactly what to do: www.gardenaction.co.uk
There is a photo showing the side shoot to be taken out on the page here:- http://www.growyourown.info/page125.html
Flower shoots look quite different with the flower buds visible.
I stopped pinching out the side shoots because sometimes they appeared to be the only ones flowering, so I was a bit sceptical of ending up with no fruit. ??? ??? The main trusses were leaf foilage only. If I pinched out all the side shoots, would the leafy foilage still begin to flower..... Is this also the same principles for cucumbers then ??? ???
http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-prune-tomatoes
try this linda
I do not quite agree with what is shown on video-jug. I start to remove the side shoots in the leaf axils (not the flowering shoots) as soon as they appear. I also allow the leader to continue as long as possible on cherry tomatoes, so that I can continue cropping as long as possible, often into November. When the plant is finished, I harvest the unripe toms and place in a sunny window to ripen till Jan or even Feb.
The Video is fine on 'pinching ou't - he does take out the tiniest shoots.
I, too, leave 'stopping' much later, but there's no point in delaying with no hope of the saved trusses forming worthwhile fruit.
Just saw Gardening World tonight, and they showed how to do it quite well. If you missed it, you can view it on i-player. The flower buds do not grow from the leaf axils, but directly from the stem, so there is no chance of mixing up the two types of shoots.
QuoteRemoving side shoots may reduce overall tomato harvest. In fact, in a study by Purdue University, and published in Organic Gardening Magazine, scientists found that removing side shoots was shown to increase the average fruit weight some of the time but did not increase the total harvest for each individual plant.
http://www.grow-tomato-sauce.com/pruning.html (http://www.grow-tomato-sauce.com/pruning.html)
So you get less tomatoes, not more.
What's wrong with letting them grow naturally anyway?
If the axil shoots are mere mm long then you rub them out, if they are more than 30mm long then break them off cleanly - they make good cuttings and will root easily in damp compost.
If they are more than 100mm long they will root but need the biggest leaves removing and a plastic bag cover. The 300mm ones I find occasionally (amongst scores of plants) need burying for 80% of their length to make them root - but you can lay them sideways with a brick over them.
When cuttings are taken from a plant that is still growing strongly they are only very slightly delayed. It's only when the plant gets past 600mm tall that the delay becomes significant. Then you might find you don't get fruit until blight is in full spate.
Just seen this,, great video but only for indeterminate ( vine) tomatoes, don't do it to determinate(bush)
ones or you will lose most of your fruit.
XX Jeannine