I'm behind with my digging and iv got pants that need to go in the ground ( only a few some leeks, cabbage, lettuce, ) and it wont be long b4 my other seeds will need planting out sweet corn etc ( space needed in the house for the resowing iv had to do ) so iv read pages and pages on the weed killer round up it says i can plant flowers out the next day hers the question
if i spray the plot with weed killer and leave it till weekend give the plot a good weed removal and a very good dig i should be ok to plant veg out i also read that i can use it in between veg if i cover them up to avoid spray and one page says that it dose not affect the soil only the weed and root i am never going to get it all dug up and I'm considering this as a drastic measure and will not use this method again ( its a one off ) dose any one have any addvice for me please thanks from loulou
quick plan 1 spray all weeds with round up on Tuesday 23/5/06
2 remove dead weeds over the weekend 27/5/06/
3 dig over during the week 30/5/06
4 re dig over the next weekend 3/6/06
5 in following weeks plant out veg that need to go in the ground from 10/6/06
do you think iv left it long enough and the way this years going for me it might work thank you for helping from loulou
Loulou
Just had a look at your blog and your plot looks pretty weed free (well done ;D)
Roundup works by sending the roots into hyperdrive so that they eventually wear themselves out and die but this takes a while to happen and above ground they have a growth spurt, looking very green and lush before gradually going yellow/brown. If you dig them out before that happens then you will have wasted your time and money spraying it in the first place.
If the weeds are mostly annuals, why not just hoe the tops off.
or for the same price as a bottle of Roundup, buy some black weed membrance and plant thro it - good for sweetcorn.
Hope that helps
thanks unfortunatly its not that plot its my other one its wast high in nettles and grass and bindweed im just about getting there with the first one iv re read the web pages and hear is what they say
When one starts to clear a plot ready to cultivate it, the first thing is to decide how
this is to be done. First cut back all weeds to ground level with a sickle or better still
if you can borrow or hire a strimmer, this makes the job easier and quicker.
Then you have to decide which is the best way to turn the plot over, by digging it by hand
or by machine, machine is quickest but digging by hand allows you to remove perennial weeds, as only a small piece left in the round, can soon start to grow again, but with a large plot this can take quite a long time, but in my opinion its the best way.
With machinery, first one must weed kill the plot with a translocated weed killer, after
spraying, the plot is left alone for 10-14 days to give the weed killer time to work, then
you go over the plot with a rotavator which can be hired from a tool hire firm, they are
quiet reasonable to hire for a day. After rotavating over the plot, rake any perennial
roots off the top of the soil and remove them and burn them.
Now the plot is clear, divide the plot into 3; so you have A. B. C. this is so you can
practice crop rotation, as you should not grow the same vegetable in the same plot year
after year.
As an example if we were to grow Brassicas in plot A we would need to lime unless the soil
was alkaline, then rake in a general purpose fertiliser two weeks before planting or
sowing.
In plot B if we were growing Beans, Pea, leek, lettuce, onion, spinach, sweet corn,
we need to add liberal amounts of well rotted manure or compost at digging time,
rake in a general purpose fertiliser two weeks prior to sowing or planting. In plot
C we use for roots, beetroot, carrots, parsnips and potatoes, do not add lime, manure
or compost, rake in a general purpose fertiliser two weeks before sowing or planting.
For pictures and other gardening information please visit www.DoctorGreenfingers.co.uk
New and improved formula starts working immediately, with visible results in 6 hours!
Kills to the root, so it can kill tough weeds the first time.
Rainproof in 10 minutes.
Tough-weather formula that even works in cool and cloudy conditions (as low as 50° F).
Foaming technology lets you see where you've sprayed.
Not active in the soil, so sprayed areas can be planted with ornamentals or flowers the day after treatment.
Pre-mixed, pre-measured, easy to use.
Adjust nozzle to a coarse spray.
Spray the weeds you want to kill until thoroughly wet.
When spot-treating weeds in a flower or vegetable garden,
shield desirable plants from drift with a piece of cardboard or plastic.
If desirable plant is accidentally sprayed, rinse off immediately with water.
Always read and follow label directions.
Apply when weeds are actively growing.
Spray when air is calm to prevent drift to desirable plants.
Weeds usually begin to wilt within hours and are dead within one to two weeks.
All ornamental flowers, trees and shrubs may be planted one day after application.
Where to Use
Can be used in vegetable gardens.
no wounder i dont know what to do for the best ::) ??? ??? ???
Well they do say that theory is a marvellous thing but not much use in practice. ;D ;D
Roundup is brilliant for couch - killed all of mine but it seems to have limited effect on thistles and bindweed, unless you keep up the applications.
Why not do this - work out how much space you need right now e.g. to plant out leeks and dig this over by hand. In the meantime, spray the rest with Roundup and leave it until the weeds die - I'm still going with 3 weeks. You could also strim down another area, hoe completely to ground level and cover with weed membrane, then plant thro - or use thick cardboard and plant through that say for the cabbages or sweetcorn.
snap with SMP :)
you may need to give the roundup two or three goes at intervals of 3/4 weeks, but you WILL defeat the weeds!
If you are desperate you can use Amcide, used by forestry to kill saplings and undergrowth eg brambles, bracken and so on... but you can't use it (the treated area) for months. I have used it very effectively on a plot which was half neck high brambles, I'm 6', the other half self set plums and Damsons up to 20 years old. There is always the old Sodium Chlorate! but you can't grow anything for about a year!!!!!
I prefer the garden fork and finger method, but I broke at least one fork every year for 4 years getting one plot under control!
;D