Polytunnel accessories

[elhuerto]

I got a 8x6 polycarb greenhouse a couple of years ago and have outgrown it as my wife has started growing a lot of flowers from seed. It's been great but would like something much bigger and decided on a polytunnel from First Tunnels.

Haven't fully decided on the length yet but 10x20 seems the most likely. I see they have quite a few add-ons here http://www.firsttunnels.co.uk/polytunnel.asp?cbowidth=10 and was wondering if anyone could take a look and suggest what they would consider "must haves". I'd like to keep the price down as much as possible as the transport costs are going to be quite steep but on the other hand don't want to regret anything later. I'm particularly unsure about the cover, clear, anti-fog or white.

Bit of background, it can get quite windy, very hot in Summer (38ºC again today) and quite cold in Winter (going down to about -7ºC). I won't be putting down a concrete base, the ground is like concrete now anyway  ::)

Cheers for any pointers!

[elhuerto]

[goodlife]

Thats where I bought mine from 10 yrs ago..and the same cover is still going on. I know exactly what I would buy now..unlike then.. ::)
I'm happy with just basic clear cover..but ventilation is the the MUST. I would not bury my planstic anymore underground, but would go for the bar option with additional side vents. I would also have door for both ends of the tunnel..window don't let much airflow through.
At time I bought some shade netting..and found that unnecessary..with good enough ventilation in UK shade is rarely needed...might be necessary issue over there...but you can use any buiders mesh for that..no need for expensive option.. ;)
I would also go for as wide tunnel as possible..once you have path in middle you'll be suprised how much room it takes..and crop bars are good..I have one on each hoop ..and they are sooo useful.

[staris]

i got mine from there as well ,good value and quality i would recommend the anti fog cover over as you get less condensation inside the tunnel.
i got a 10x15 as that is the biggest we are allowed on our site, and and fit a lot plants inside.
just out of interest goodlife, why would you not bury the plastic as that is what keeps them secure in the ground :)

[elhuerto]

Thanks very much for the insights.

[elhuerto]

One more thing I must have missed when looking before is the Irrigation Kit. The economy version at 22 quid seems a good deal but for an extra 50 quid there's one with a timer which I can see being handy when we're off on our hols or when I've got a lot of work on. I don't suppose anyone has any experience of either but if you have, I'd be really interested to hear what you think.

[green lily]

Mines from there too.Mines 3mx4m Had it 5 years. Get a door both ends but make your own. theirs aren't much good and you save the money for something else. I've replaced the busy door with a more substantial one. I also chose a netting side  with the winch polycover which after 5 years graft does need replacing [the poly not the winch]. Been invaluable. My doors are covered in heavy net for air but have bubblewrap stapled on in winter.
Irrigation can be a problem. avoid overhead misting because it just makes the leaves wet instead of the roots which is not good. I just use a water pump from a barrel or bin kept in the poly itself to keep it warmish and filled from big house water bins.Direct it straight at the roots. Not very automated but better thab a watering can! Hope this helps. :)

[goodlife]

Code Select Expand

just out of interest goodlife, why would you not bury the plastic as that is what keeps them secure in the ground Sorry..I only just notice this..
well..our site is not very exposed so although burying the plastic does make the tunnel secure against bad winds..but having the bottom bars and the plastic fastened on that makes putting the cover up easier and if having the louvre-type vents they go sort of 'hand in hand' with the bottom fastening..that's what I understand and I've seen with some tunnels....and..all/any rain that will fall do get to moisten the soil near the plastic..inside.. which is always bone dry when the plastic is buried. But I would make concrete 'feet' for each of the hoop legs for some extra security against winter gusts.
I suppose there could be some sort of guttering system put on the ground..just under the plastic and bottom bars to catch the rain and perharps even diverted straight inside..it would be cheap and relatively work free thing to do.
I ended up taking the plastic off my door and changing it to netting...the plastic just took too much out of ventilation and the 'blinds' that came with the window and door were never really used. If needed its easy to put something temporary up.
I agree with green lily with the irrigation..I would go for the root option too..with over head type you waste lot of water and get it everywhere else part where its needed.
Where you are, I would imagine getting enough ventilation would be important..and moisture to the roots.

[goodlife]

Forgot.. ::)
Yep..the doors are not that heavy duty..and they are quite easy to russle up with a bit of wood...pallet wood would work fine...summer you would not even really need the doors..or they would be almost permanently open.
My tunnel is weathered well over the years..it is the door that is showing first signs of age...needs some repairs really.. :-\ ::)

[chriscross1966]

One way of running an autowatering system would be a big tank on the outside (an IBC would be a good choice), with a solar panel on top of it, then inside have a central heating header rigged as high up as you can get it with an overflow back to the big tank. THe solar panel is plugged into a solar powered fountain pump pushing water from the IBC into the header. YOu need to spec a pump/panel combination capable of lifting the water a couple of metres or so... Then you run a pipe from the bottom of the header down a bit (to give it some pressure to work with) and add an autowatering timer set to come on a bit before dawn and turn off again before the sun hits the panel.... I've got the bits to do this (didn't get round to building the PT this year but will do so next year) and by my calculations if I set it to drop 20 gallons or so a day then a full IBC will last 10 days, if you arrange soem form of guttering (the mini stuff held to the PT with gaffer tape might work, I will experiment) to refill the IBC then you should get more... it's important to use a solar pump and set the autowatering to happen at night-ish so that you aren't pumping and watering at the same time... the panel/pump combo I've chosen (I had a panel anyway so chose a pump that matched and they might be on the big side) will refill the header in approx 20 minutes as long as the panel is putting out at least 75% of it's direct sun value..... THe main cost is in the panel, the IBC cost me 25 quid, the header tank I found in a skip where someone had converted an old gravity feed heating system to combi boiler, the pump was about a tenner inc postage.... THe panel was about 50 quid several years ago when I used it on my camper van, it got retired cos I always have mains access now at festivals cos I work them as a lampy....

[elhuerto]

I'd like to keep the price down as much as possible as the transport costs are going to be quite steep

Hmmm.... over 500 quid + VAT so that's a non-starter  :(