Have I killed my wormery?

[jellied]

I've been bothered with flies and eventually maggots over the years in my wormery.

I saw on WigglyWigglers some magic powder called Diatomaceous Earth http://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/shop/product.html?product_id=653&-session=shopper:568A9BDF07d0a22766Vwq191FDA5
which is supposed to help. I checked on ebay and bought a larger bottle for half the price. But it's called Diatom powder and says it's ideal for worming - which in my mind involves killing the very thing i'm trying to protect.

Are they infact the same thing?

[jellied]

[Baccy Man]

It is the same thing. For most insects coming into contact with it is like walking through a pile of razor blades. After they have their skin/shells shredded the moisture is sucked out of their bodies by the silica in the DE, if they consume it the same thing happens from the inside out. Earthworms however are immune to its effects so it will kill everything but the worms in your wormery.
If you are tempted to use it elsewhere in the garden rember it will kill beneficial insects as well as pests so think about where you are using it eg: sprinkling on flowers would kill bees so shouldn't be done but sprinkling around your lettuce will kill slugs/snails so it could be beneficial.

[Digeroo]

Earthworms however are immune to its effects so it will kill everything but the worms in your wormery.

Worms in compost are normally banded worms rather than earthworms are they immune as well?

[Baccy Man]

Yes.

[GlentoranMark]

Rather than start a separate thread but can anyone tell me what dilution I should make my worm tea?

I built a small worm bin out of poundland £1 storage crates and worms costing £4 from a fishing shop. If anyone needs instructions, I'll post them up. It was really easy to do and 3 months later I'm starting to reap the rewards.

[Baccy Man]

You don't normally need to dilute worm casting tea.
http://www.mastercomposter.com/pile/useapply.html#TEA

If you mean your wormery is producing excessive amounts of leachate then that indicates you have a problem with the moisture levels in your wormery. Most wormeries should only produce a couple of teaspoons of leachate per week adding more dry material will resolve the problem.
http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/index.php/topic,39267.msg390462.html#msg390462

[GlentoranMark]

Reply with quote
You don't normally need to dilute worm casting tea.
http://www.mastercomposter.com/pile/useapply.html#TEA

I thought I read somewhere you had to dilute it. I felt it would be too strong to apply directly. I have 2 litres of the stuff ready.

Thanks for your help.

[Baccy Man]

A lot of companies claim that leachate is the same thing as tea & reccommend diluting it 10:1.

"teas" are defined as a steepage generated by placing finished, stable compost and/or worm castings in water; some people agitate the water, some don't; some aerate the water, some don't; some add nutrient solutions to amplify the biology, some don't. Regardless, "teas" all use as the substrate from which the initial biological community, nutrient and other chemistry are extracted, finished, stable material.

Leachate, on the other hand, is liquid that drains from an actively decomposing mass of organic matter, thus it is liquid that is in contact with undecomposed material in the system. It is this factor, coupled with the cause for liquid to be draining in sufficient quantity that it can be collected, that creates concern.

Composting and vermicomposting are processes understood to destroy or at least significantly reduce pathogenic organisms, typically rendering their numbers suficiently low to pose little threat to human health. Because leachate drains through material that has not been thoroughly processed, however, pathogens like e-coli and salmonella associated with household organic waste and even garden waste can potentially be picked up in the leachate and contaminate the surfaces of fruits and veggies to which it is applied. It's important to understand that the concern is not that plants might take these pathogens up through their systems, but is a concern over surface contamination of garden produce. Those who choose to use leachate on edible plants are encouraged to wait several weeks after application before harvesting to ensure pathogens have died off before produce is eaten.

[jellied]

Thanks everyone - what would I do without this forum!