Topic: what's wrong with this tomato ?

[no-lottie]

It be Blossom End Rot believe it or not, You don't always get it on the underside.

My answer to your post was that it was not Blossom End Rot, now if you want to call it Blackheart, or Blossom End Rot that is entirely up to you.

[Jeannine]

Hi again, I just read my post again and part of it is misleading.

I started by arguing that it is not Blackheart which it is not for sure,.

I then described the cause etc of Blossom End Rot.

All that part is true but I neglected to add the word usual  when describing BER, all that I said is pertaining to the type of BER we usually see, however this neglect fails to fully describe the problem fully. Had I not been going out in a hurry I would have added the following which I  seemed to have left off.

There is a form of BER that does in fact happen inside the fruit, it is not common and is Internal BER, I am sorry but in my haste to answer fully  before I had to go out I lost the plot for a moment. It is a question I have answered many times and have to admit I just followed my usual spiel and neglected to add the bit that really mattered.

So, I will say again, usual BER is only seen at the blossom end of the fruit.. It does not start at the stem end. 

Internal BER can begin in the centre of the fruit. I would expect you to have more than one fruit affected .

Everything else in my post is accurate, and bear in mind usual BER is the one most often seen.

I am sorry if my post confused anyone.

 I would say yes your fruit definately has Internal BER, not the usual one we see and are asked about often.

XX Jeannine

[sunloving]

Gosh not used the ignore button in a long time
x sunloving

[antipodes]

Jeannine that is quite informative. I do find that BER comes on my first toms, as they just have it now!  :'(  But it is not all types, and usually only on the first ones (which is all the more disappointing). For the last couple of years weather has been chaotic, with drought periods, then unseasonal rain and varying temps. As I grow outdoors there is little you can do to prevent it. But I agree that it usually goes away once the fruit is properly developing and ripening at full speed!

[Jeannine]

Sunloving..have I done something wrong..your post followed mine

XX Jeannine

[sunloving]

Never you lovely, your posts are always informative and warm.
 :)
x sunloving

[davyw1]

Never you lovely, your posts are always informative and warm.
 :)
x sunloving

Then i appologise for being a boring old fart

Davy

[pigeonseed]

Then i appologise for being a boring old fart

;) I don't think you were being a boring old fart. I think no-lottie wound you up and you let him  ;)

No-lottie, you're being a bit ... *tries to find tactful word* ... prickly?

[no-lottie]

I didn't wind him up Pigeon, just queried his diagnosis.  ;)

[Jeannine]

Oh good, we are all friends..

If anyone needs it I can find you some links about Internal BER.

XX Jeannine

[no-lottie]

Maybe if anyone has BER problems they should ask you first Jeannine.  ;D

[macmac]

Sorry I asked  :-X
Group hug ?  ;D

[sunloving]

not you either, old fart :)

[davyw1]

not you either, old fart :)

LOL    I am an older fart than an old fart you know

[Deb P]

So........now we are all mates again, can I just clarify.....we think it is internal blossom end rot that is the problem here, and the treatment is the same as for ordinary BER?  8)

[no-lottie]

So........now we are all mates again, can I just clarify.....we think it is internal blossom end rot that is the problem here, and the treatment is the same as for ordinary BER?  8)

I'd imagine that the number of fruit involved would be miniscule compared to 'ordinary' BER and may only involve one single plant in the garden, that treatment wouldn't be needed as it should correct itself. BER problems are more complex than assuming too little or too much water is to blame, as it can be a number of things that trigger it. Then, by the time you have found any damaged fruit you'd need to ask yourself has the problem rectified itself as you cannot see it or do I treat the plant, when what you give it may do more harm than good.

[Jeannine]

Yes, the causes and preventatives are exactly the same..bear in mind however that adding calcium is useless if the soil does not need it, it is the plants inability to absorb the calciul usually not lack if it..

Water evenly and regulary, don`t let plants dry out especially at flowering time, don`t overwater and remember it is  often  only on the first fruit, plums are most prone and the fruit is still edible,,it is not catching. Oh and it is more prevalent in containers as watering is more difficult to regulate.

There are some varieties resistant and some more prone..I will get you a list .

XX Jeannine

[Jeannine]

Cornell Uni put out the following list of BER resistant varieties but I have no personal experience with them and BER

New Yorker
Old Brooks
Thessalonika
Manalucie
Black prince
Wins All
Mountain Spring


It is curious that Mountain Spring is sold as BER resistant as is Lisa King. I have grown Mountain King this year and Old Brooks, both are also said to be blight resistant. I don,t have BER or blight at6 all yet in any tomatoes though.

Also to note,cherry tomatoes are usually unaffected.

Still working on a sensitive list

XX Jeannine

[peanuts]

Macmac
When you've a moment, could you tell me how you manage to put up a photo on A4All, please! I see you've done it with your tomato.  I've tried and tried but not succeeded. We uses iphoto, and have an applemac.  Thanks.
Peanuts

[brownowl23]

I had this in one fo my tomatoes. SHame as it was my first brandywine. I don know though that whilst I was away on holiday watering was very sporadic and not much