Allotments 4 All
Produce => Edible Plants => Topic started by: plainleaf on January 07, 2012, 06:57:53
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what method do you use to keep the cover on your home made hoop house?
i am working on a new hoop house and am try a new way and am curious how every one else has done theirs ?
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hi
i use blue water pipe works ok for me.
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pipe is obvious for the frame but how do you secure the cover.
ps water pipe in usa is either is usaully white or tan.
especially the type used for hoop houses
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I use a staple gun to stitch mine on. May leave one side free and come up with a bungee type system so I can lift one side of the cover instead of the whole frame on the next batch.
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You dig a trench each side of the tunnel and bury the cover in the ground. The first side is easy, it is tensioning the other side that makes it all come together. Definately a two man job.
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What dimension is your 'hoop house'? In the UK we have cloches, giant cloches (like the Geoff Hamilton cloche) or polytunnels, but not hoop houses. And the methods differ according to the size and construction of the thing.
How did you so aptly put our transatlantic language problems recently? Terms that confuse gardeners ..... ;D
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20 ft by 4 ft
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20 ft by 4 ft
That's a poly tunnel.
The page below may answer your question, url below. But there is a lot more information on www if you google.
http://www.citadelpolytunnels.com/polytunnel_construction_(basics).aspx
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what method do you use to keep the cover on your home made hoop house?
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No they're not. You can't walk into a GH cloche.
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robert in USA size is not factor in calling something a hoop house shape is what determines a hoop house.
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BLX...............Roofing lats
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There seems to be a slight difference in nomenclature here. I presume that for hoop house we would say polytunnel.
So translating the question is how to keep the plastic on a homemade polytunnel. Though I presume that the problem is similar with the smaller homemade cloche as well.
I have seen one with cable ties and holes cut into the plastic, not convinced that it would not tear given a strong wind.
I did manage to keep the plastic on one with a slightly larger stiffer plastic piping cut into sections and cut into a shape that clipped over the plastic and onto the piping. But sometimes they simply jumped off.
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Digeroo to keep the plastic from ripping grommits might help
one other issue you need consider with you suggestions snow is factor here.
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We just weigh the netting down with strategically placed bricks, but I would love a more accesible method.
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Like i said roofing lats
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/stumpinsci/Picture.jpg)
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Wow! That looks abfab (but in a good way! ;)) !! What's BLX? ??? ???
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Wow! That look abfab (but in a good way! ;)) !! What's BLX? ??? ???
I think i will PM you on that
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I'm very impressed davyw1. But it is quite a structure, am I right it has a breeze block base with foundations etc.
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I'm very impressed davyw1. But it is quite a structure, am I right it has a breeze block base with foundations etc.
Yes the polythene with bricks rolls up for more ventilation
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The 4' width gives away that this is an extended[20'] tunnel cloche. I use lengths of timber along sides weighed down with bricks. [ where all the slugs hide ::)
However-- if you are using a raised bed with wooden sides then a top edging frame in say 5ft sections can be made and the hoops attached to the frame and the netting or poly stapled or pinned with lathes.
The frame can be hinged to lift back and tensioned with chains from falling off. Netting can be tailored to fit like a big hat but poly needs to be drawn together with string or similar to close the ends. There are examples on utube but I'm afraid I don't have a link. Most of the examples on utube are from the States.
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davy nice hoop house but where I live that would be crushed by snow during average winter.
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davy nice hoop house but where I live that would be crushed by snow during average winter.
I have finally reached a decision and decides that you either engage your typing fingers before your brain or you are from the ministry of silly statements.
My tunnel and every other tunnel i have built on our allotments do not have one nail or one staple in it they are built so one can simply go along the lats that hold the skin in place with a battery screw driver remove the screws then the lats and roll the skin to the centre and tie it off onto the main centre support. Rather than having to change my soil every year i let the elements flush my trenches through for me.
So regardless of how much snow we get that tunnel will still be standing when its gone.
Going completely off topic could i have your opinion of my shed
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/stumpinsci/Picture177.jpg)
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Is it time for a spring clean?
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Davyw1,
Going even further off topic ;D, on the right hand side of your 'shed' picture I notice a runner bean support of a design I have not seen before. Usually I notice that the canes cross at the top of the structure whereas yours seem to be crossing 1 - 2 feet off the ground - what is the thinking behind this?
I like the look of this structure a lot and if they cross lower down for strength I may well be using this on my plot where the wind may be an issue for me and need all the strength I can get into the support.
Thanks
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davy i seen professionally built green house nonrigid plastic built in hoop design with metal frame go down in 12-16 inches of snow. as said yours would not survive here.
now back to topic
the bed i plan on covering with hoops is as said is 20ft x 4 ft the hoops will be only 3 ft from soil level
banksy and davy another thread on bean support might be good idea
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Davyw1,
Going even further off topic ;D, on the right hand side of your 'shed' picture I notice a runner bean support of a design I have not seen before. Usually I notice that the canes cross at the top of the structure whereas yours seem to be crossing 1 - 2 feet off the ground - what is the thinking behind this?
I like the look of this structure a lot and if they cross lower down for strength I may well be using this on my plot where the wind may be an issue for me and need all the strength I can get into the support.
Thanks
For no other reason than the beans hang down the ouside so i dont have to go loking on the inside
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Wicked !!
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Davyw1,
Going even further off topic ;D, on the right hand side of your 'shed' picture I notice a runner bean support of a design I have not seen before. Usually I notice that the canes cross at the top of the structure whereas yours seem to be crossing 1 - 2 feet off the ground - what is the thinking behind this?
I like the look of this structure a lot and if they cross lower down for strength I may well be using this on my plot where the wind may be an issue for me and need all the strength I can get into the support.
Thanks
For no other reason than the beans hang down the ouside so i dont have to go loking on the inside
;D You may have just unwittingly changed the look of allotments far and wide! ;) I'll be using this alongside Munty's bean frame in a few weeks.
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^^ The Munty Frame - that was the name I was trying to remember !!
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love the shed is that the outty bit and have you a inny bit to lock things away the chap next to me does his bean support that way but cross more in the middle