Allotments 4 All
Produce => Edible Plants => Topic started by: plainleaf on February 18, 2011, 20:49:55
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HI all I will going the Philadelphia flower show. The creator of square foot system and writer of the books Mel Bartholomew will be speaking at the show on Saturday march 12.
If you all have any questions that you wish me to ask about square foot gardening on your behalf. I would be glad to ask them for you.
ps please make all questions as clear ,concise, and short as possible.
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Sounds interesting. Cannot think of a question at the mo. But give us an update of your visit.
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Does the principle of crop rotation still apply when growing in a small space?
I don't have an allotment now, so grow in my garden.
I have a good sized border, a greenhouse and patio area.
My garden is south west facing which is ideal.
Would like to know how to make best use of space I have
Any info would be a great help
Debs :)
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Does the principle of crop rotation still apply when growing in a small space?
Yes it does.
This should help
http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/organicgardening/gh_sqft.php
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Thanks for that AJ - will plan my space carefully - probably this weekend
as it is raining on north east coast :(
Planning seed sowing in next few days
Plainleaf - any info you can bring back would be gratefully received :)
Debs x
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deb the books include more info then the web page.
1. traditional crop rotation is near useless in preventing pest and disease problems in a small garden. since the pests have no trouble traveling the the small distance in small garden.
also disease have no problem moving around a small garden.
As for the nutrient issue in a small garden square foot add fresh compost to each square
before a new plant is put in a square.
2. the spacing issue in a small gardening is more then how many plants per square foot.
you all have deal with the companion planting issue. in that certain plant retard the growth of others so they can be planted next to each other. there is no good info on the distance that these antagonist plants have be separated.
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bump
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I'm not sure that rotation is useless. For instance, if I plant potatoes in the same bed as last year, I've no chance of getting out accidentals, and it only takes one surviving the winter with blight to start another outbreak. I only have to plant them in the next bed over, and I can spot the accidentals coming up and deal with them.
Rotation won't stop onion white rot for long, as you'll be spreading infected soil around as you walk across the garden. But planting onions repeatedly in the same place will just encourage the disease to build up there, while rotation might have had some chance of minimising it.
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Robert_Brenchley you still don't get it. but thats ok this is about square foot gardening.
also if plant potatoes in square foot method there are no accidentals.
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I dpn't understand how you avoid accidentals sometimes called volunteers in the square foot system, if you miss digging one up one year what happens to it the next?
But thanks for reminding me I have one area which I have yet to decide what to do with and square feet might be the answer.
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Digeroo have you read the book.
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Where's it mentioned in the book? I've got both versions, but I don't remember anything about it, and the indexes aren't much.
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Robert_Brenchley do you want me to try to explain it to you .
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Would you give us a summary version of the lecture please?
I still feel that the US square foot method is more akin of a square 50cm here because our light levels are lower and as a consequence plants grow taller, wider and larger.
However the idea is still a useful one, because it makes you concentrate on utilising all available space. And for new gardeners it isn't so daunting to deal with a small area.
If you could, please ask him on our behalf what his thoughts are regarding more northern areas, say between 50 and 60 degrees of latitude, and taller plants.
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Robert_Brenchley do you want me to try to explain it to you .
A page reference would do, since it would save me potentially having to re-read both.
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p 61 , chapter 6, p 55
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I still feel that the US square foot method is more akin of a square 50cm here because our light levels are lower and as a consequence plants grow taller, wider and larger.
That's a good point, Galina. I have the orginal book (second hand bargain) but I thought when I read it that the spacings were way too crowded. But doubling everything might work, and it would be interesting to get his view.
I agree the principles of breaking down your plot into small areas and planning very carefully are useful, especially for people like me with a veg garden not full-size allotment (or for half/third plots for that matter).
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the spacing are fine for UK. You just have learn how to translate them for square foot.
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the spacing are fine for UK. You just have learn how to translate them for square foot.
You misunderstood. I did not want y o u to tell me that the spacings are fine. You offered to take our questions to Mel Bartholomew. May I ask you (if this is a serious offer) would you please ask the question on my behalf and tell me what h e said.
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Would you give us a summary version of the lecture please?
Good suggestion
If you could, please ask him on our behalf what his thoughts are regarding more northern areas, say between 50 and 60 degrees of latitude, and taller plants.
Good question Galina, be interesting to hear what is said
Out of interest Plainleaf, what questions do you have that you want answered?
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galina will be recording the lecture so i will report the high points.
i go to show ever year.
there will also be book signing.
As spacing issue i will be posting the reason you think plants planted to close.
most spacing problem are not fault of method but related to varieties being grown.
For example: depending on the type corn there 3 different spacings in square foot gardening for corn.
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galina will be recording the lecture so i will report the high points.
As spacing issue i will be posting the reason you think plants planted to close.
most spacing problem are not fault of method but related to varieties being grown.
For example: depending on the type corn there 3 different spacings in square foot gardening for corn.
Not sure what you mean by " will be posting the reason you think plants planted to close".
Please ask on my behalf advice on size of squares for gardeners between 50 and 60 degrees latitude, where varieties grow larger/wider/taller due to shallower sun angle and let us know what Mel B advises. Many thanks.
Indeed we could choose smaller varieties as you advise, but this isn't quite the point. Would like to grow normal varieties.
Would be great to get the gist from his lecture and quite envious that you can go :)
Have fun.
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bump
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I just checked my copy of 'Square Foot Gardening'. What it says is that the early varieties of corn reach 4-5 feet and should be spaced 8 inches apart. Midseason vaieties reach 5-7 feet, and late varieties, which should be spaced 12 inches apart, reach 7-8 feet. With this spacing, you get a smaller yield per plant, but a larger overall yield. It's standard stuff which you'll get in any book covering bed planting. My view of this is that it's bed planting packaged for people with very small spaces.
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Robert it was designed not only for small spaces it was designed as an efficient as possible design. It can expanded to larger spaces with out loosing the increased productivity/ to space
ratio.
As for speaking to mel the current spacing ratio for sweet corn is
4 per foot for short early varieties
2 per foot for medium high mid season
1 per foot for tall late season varieties
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Did you get the chance to put my question, Plainleaf?
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Did you get the chance to put my question, Plainleaf?
answer number 4
http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/index.php/topic,66138.0.html
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Did you get the chance to put my question, Plainleaf?
answer number 4
http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/index.php/topic,66138.0.html
Thanks. Never mind - I asked about latitude effects and the answer seems to do with broccoli ???
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galina you just work around latitude effects.