Allotments 4 All
Allotment Stuff => The Basics => Topic started by: Hector on May 05, 2016, 10:31:45
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We are going to build a tall cloche over a bed using 20mm diameter water pipe. What I'm not sure of is the rebar width/diameter to buy. We want to thread the water pipe over the rebar.
I know I should get fit as snug as possible but wondered...
A. What diameter have you guys used
B. How do you cut lengths to right height...or will suppliers do this...what have you guys found works?
Thanks
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That pipe has an inside diameter of 15.4mm so 15mm overall diameter of rebar would be ideal but the rebar standard size No4 is the one you would want with outside diameter of 12.7mm as the next size up is too big.
As to supply a local steel fabricator or blacksmith would I am sure be able to help you out if you want it cut to length or for that matter anyone with an angle grinder.
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Thanks, that's really helpful :)
We did have a source of cheap rebar but not available at present.
Cheapest tube we can see is Copper..do you think thats OK. Our friend is a plumber, so potential offcuts
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Anything free is good obviously but I would not pay for copper as it corrodes very quickly. I would suggest maybe trying Flintshire Steel and Timber unless you have anyone who works with metal locally.
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Davyboi, thanks so much for link. Helpful firm and we got a good deal. Collecting later :)
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Another question. Is there a formula for working out how much polythene or flack to cover ?
I was thinking of using this and scaling down
https://www.northernpolytunnels.co.uk/polythene-calculator
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Another question. Is there a formula for working out how much polythene or flack to cover ?
Yes and no..... it depends upon your dimensions e.g are they going to be semi-circular or are they going to have vertical sides.?
If semicircular the formula is ½ Pi D where D equals the width of the bed. (plus a bit each side for sticking into the ground)
If You have vertical sides of say 18" then the formula is roughly ½ Pi D + 2x18"
I use these they are made of hoop iron which is easily bent to suit various bed widths where what you are describing are only really suited to the width of the bed you design them for.
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd27/tgalmanac/00-Allotment/Onions.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/tgalmanac/media/00-Allotment/Onions.jpg.html)
I have had these for nearly twenty years now and I cant recall the lengths I bought but I do believe they are around 10ft long (3metres)
The beauty of this is I can vary the height of them simply by pushing them into the soil to the desired height. Because they are so thin there is very little resistance and cut into the soil like a knife!
What I do recall is hoop iron comes from the steel mills in stock sizes which mght be around 30-35 ft (10-12m) so I bought full lengths and cut them into three equal pieces.This means there is no waste so there are no cutting charges ( they are easily cut with a standard hacksaw)
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That looks really effective...be ideal for my strawberry bed. Is that the flat hooping, like they use round barrels?
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That looks really effective...be ideal for my strawberry bed. Is that the flat hooping, like they use round barrels?
Basically yes but there are lots of widths and gauges available subject to its eventual use.
One or two of the plot holders on our site have what you describe it is galvanised and is about two inches wide by around three sixteenth or so thick, whereas what I use is mild steel about one inch wide and an eigth of an inch thick.
I like the true hoop iron but at the time I bought mine I got it in part of a bulk order my company was buying. So economy and effectiveness was the order of the day an I bought five lengths.
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If you go to West Coast Seeds, thensee their chices of help guides, you will find one on making a cloche greenhouse.It will tell you exactly how to do it, and what to buy. Although it is Canada it is all good for the UK too.
I tried to put a link but couldn't
The article us making a cloche greenhouse but it is just as good for making a smaller version
XX Jeannine
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Let's try again
https://www.westcoastseeds.com/articles-instructions/product-instructions/making-a-cloche-greenhouse/ (https://www.westcoastseeds.com/articles-instructions/product-instructions/making-a-cloche-greenhouse/)
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Thanks Tee Gee, quick on the draw..
You should havealook while there as it is a good source of reference for many things..check out their planting guide
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Thank you. I'm trying things I wouldtherwise feel " out of my depth with " without the help on this site. Very much appreciated.
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Tee Gee - any recommendations for the "floppy" netting you seem to be using? Particularly suppliers?
Many thanks.
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It is fruit netting as seen here.
http://www.harrodhorticultural.com/garden-and-plant-netting-tcid27.html (http://www.harrodhorticultural.com/garden-and-plant-netting-tcid27.html)
Word of warning only buy the knitted stuff it will last for years go to a reliable suppliers there are load of cheap substitutes on the Internet.
The single strand nylon stuff Bean netting is rubbish for this purpose.
Always remember to get a width that is at least one metre wider than the bed width to give you a bit of height.
As far as suppliers are concerned I guess it is a case of shopping around, the above link I used was only to show you a close up of it.
Most garden centres will carry it perhaps if you had a look there first to get some brand names then you could look on line for what you want.
I hope that helps
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Tee Gee - any recommendations for the "floppy" netting you seem to be using? Particularly suppliers?
Many thanks.
i use debris netting you can get it from scaffold direct id get the 3mt wide stuff 3mtx50mt white is around £40 plus a bit of postage mine has lasted five years i reakon ill get this season out of it and then ill use it for covering seed beds to stop the cats it really is good value and ive had no probs with it
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I like debris netting too - brilliant stuff, and as a bonus the birds don't seem to get caught in it. I hate that plastic netting with small squares, ever since I had to pull out a half dead bird that had been caught in it at least a day, it died in my hands - I'm not a squeamish person, but it wasn't very nice to think of the thing all frighteneed and suffering.
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Many thanks for the netting replies. Yes, "knitted" is what I am looking for. I have a roll of debris netting which I have found cheap and useful, but the centre holes need sewing up to keep butterflies out! I also find that it is quite a lot warmer inside than out and made a whitefly haven! Thanks again.
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ive now finished this cloche for my pumpkins if the rain holds of ill post a pic of the finished article
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Question Johnny?
Why are you covering your pumpkins, particularly when they want copious amounts of moisture?
I grow mine on the compost heap and let the rainfall do the rest.
We have to have an exceptionally dry season before I supplement the moisture by manual watering.
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Pumpkin/Pumpkin%20pics/41-Rings%20ready%20for%20Pumpkins%20&%20Courgettes.JPG)
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Pumpkin/Pumpkin%20pics/Pumpkins%20&%20Courgettes.JPG)
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Pumpkin/Pumpkin%20pics/Pumpkins..jpg)
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Pumpkin/Pumpkin%20pics/Allot0909091.jpg)
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Question Johnny?
Why are you covering your pumpkins, particularly when they want copious amounts of moisture?
I grow mine on the compost heap and let the rainfall do the rest. im tr
We have to have an exceptionally dry season before I supplement the moisture by manual watering.
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Pumpkin/Pumpkin%20pics/41-Rings%20ready%20for%20Pumpkins%20&%20Courgettes.JPG)
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Pumpkin/Pumpkin%20pics/Pumpkins%20&%20Courgettes.JPG)
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Pumpkin/Pumpkin%20pics/Pumpkins..jpg)
(http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Pumpkin/Pumpkin%20pics/Allot0909091.jpg)
im trying for 200lb plus this year i water them 3 to 4 times a day 4 watering cans each and feed every other day had a mare last year dad was ill lots of prob just managed 156lb so going for it this year lots of heat lots of food lots of water
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Ah! Now I see!
I am quite the reverse of that!
My priority is grow them so that my grandchildren can lift them, I don't want them ending up with a hernia at their tender age.
Then when I think about it it is also easier on me at my tender age!
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Ah! Now I see!
I am quite the reverse of that!
My priority is grow them so that my grandchildren can lift them, I don't want them ending up with a hernia at their tender age.
Then when I think about it it is also easier on me at my tender age!
i grow jack be little for the grandkids and my youngest out in the open
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Anything free is good obviously but I would not pay for copper as it corrodes very quickly.
That's weird - copper is one of the metals that occasionally shows up as metal amongst ore deposits millions of years old. Any soil you have that's acid enough to etch it would grow virtually nothing.
There's always black/brown oxide (or green carbonate) on the surface but it is very shallow - that's why it's used for roofing and can last centuries - at least until acid rain appeared.
It is a form of corrosion without damage... on the other hand iron/steel rebar will last a couple of decades OK but it will corrode to flakes fairly soon after (unless you use stainless steel).
On the same subject, you may notice that you sometimes get supermarket food sold in aluminium trays, and they seem sturdy enough to use under plants etc, but aluminium is notorious for corroding into 'pits' - within a season they start to leak like sieves. That's why they use zinc for 'silvery' roofs instead...
Cheers.