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No dig or not no gig?

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Plot69:
Does rotavating to a depth of about 8 inches, spread a good thick layer of cow manure on top and then rotavating that all in count as no dig? My new virgin plot up until last year has been ploughed and cultivated for arable crops for 100's of years and I honestly can't see the point in digging it with hand tools. If it were a previously used but neglected wilderness I could understand it but it's not.
 

Obelixx:
Beechgrove BBC Scotland on Thursday or BBC2 on Sunday morning) has been doing trials of traditional dig and no dig on their beds.  They recently compared crops and found that yields were higher and of a more consistent size on no dig except for beetroot where one of the beets on the no dig got very excited and grew huge.

If you go to the website you can download factsheets.

Seems to me it's a no brainer once you've cleared a plot of deep rooted weeds - less back-breaking for the gardener and less damage to beneficial organisms such as worms, insects and micro-organisms that help with soil fertility.

Beersmith:
What's in a name? As Shakespeare put it, " a rose by any other name would smell as sweet". It doesn't really matter what you call it.

I think the issue here is would it work?  The only possible problem I can think of is if the ground was badly compacted, as this would create a thinnish loose layer over a solid base. But from your description of the plot it seems unlikely. Why not test dig a few very spots down to 15 inches to check? No signs of compaction? Go for it!!

The only other caution about rotavating is if you have a lot of perennial weeds. It just chops them up and makes the weed problem worse. But that is easily checked too.  Good luck!

ancellsfarmer:
As a third season convert to No-dig, I would make the following observations.
With 'clean' ground, you have the perfect opportunity. An arable field with a known cultivation history, typically farmed 'conventionally' will have topsoil thickness of maybe 10", or so. It may have been within a rotation of 5 seasons, cereals for 3, rape or other break crop for 2 . It will likely been sprayed for weeds, insects, fungi as 'required'.
 Much arable land has been 'mined' for carbon,ie more taken out than put in.
My thoughts would be to progressively build up the organic content with as much material* as you can lay hands on. I would dig test pits at intervals (1 in each corner?)to determine the soil profile, going down to subsoil/ base rock or 450mm to determine any compaction/aenorobic(blue) layers. Consider its drainage. Notice/count the number of earthworms you find in each hole.
Level off any ridges/furrows and fill in the holes!
Ideally 3" layer of organic material over all, or as much as you can do 1st year. Get it on before Christmas. Cover with polysheet/tarp to suppress any weed seedlings. Organise a compost area. Retreat for winter.
No dig is ideal. It prevents you bringing to the surface by rotovating or digging,  that buried seedbank of weeds and previous crop.
When you withdraw the cover, you will have a surface ready for transplanting from modules/pots your intended crop. If , later in season, (May) you wish to sow seeds directly, rake aside the (diminished) layer and continue. Remove any weeds before they get through the layer. Each year 'top up' with a further 1" or so of 'material'*
Use the time/energy not digging to source/process 'material' to compost.
I heartily recommend Charles Dowdings website and books.
See :
charlesdowding.co.uk
*material would be any/all types of manure, compost,plant waste, composted woodchip,coffee grounds, spent hops,cardboard, straw, preferably composted together and 'aged'.

picman:
Totally bonkers , who can cover 177 sq m with 3" compost  ...even if raised beds ( which attract slugs and other pests by the way )

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