Produce > Pests & Diseases

Problems with Manure again

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Digeroo:
So here are the Digeroo manure guidelines. 

1.  Use broad beans to test the all manure before application.
2.  Stack all manure until tests are clear.
3.  Do not bury manure, if on the surface it can be raked off again if necessary.
4.  Keep well manure away from the roots of the plants.   
5.  In case of problem try rainwater and yoghurt.

I believe that those with alkaline soils and alkaline tap water are at most risk of problems.  I wish I could get someone to test this theory.  But a rough tally of those with the worst problems a few years ago put them in alkaline areas.  But I am fairly sure, I carried in 5 ltr bottles of rainwater to test my theory, and found plant recovery quite quick.

I think I will try a bean test on the offending manure now, and see what results.  Due to various problems I did not do it earlier this year. 

This is interesting.
http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/Clopyralid%20Report.pdf
I table 6 is list one study where 5 soil samples were tested, and the half life of the Aminopyralid was between 31.5 and 533 days.  So it seems to be saying in some soils it take nearly 1.5 years !!!Years!!! for half  !!!Half!!! of it to break down. :BangHead: :BangHead:   And we seem to have the wrong type of soil.   
Table 3.  Is very worrying  just how much weedkiller is being used on crops.



Vinlander:

--- Quote from: Digeroo on July 10, 2018, 14:35:26 ---
5.  In case of problem try rainwater and yoghurt.

--- End quote ---

This question is probably the one most likely to be my stupidest for some time, but were you using you using the hose or the dipping tank?

Tapwater is nearly sterile when it comes out, whereas dipping tank water is a mass of bacteria from root washing, algae colonies etc. etc. (as evidenced by its ability to render glysophate inactive instantly).

Cheers.

ancellsfarmer:
From coloquial account upon another forum site, it was expounded that the aminopyralid, which is systemic, lays dormant in the killed plant fibres until released by decay/composting, when it becomes effective again. The instruction by manufacturer to farmers is to 'retain ' the killed plant, ideally on the field it was grown. However, the range of crops treated has been increased, now including oil seed rape. With the prospect this year of diminished production of forage and bedding due to shorter crops from the drought, the temptation/necessity to utilise such materials as are available, and the fact that supply, often through third parties to ourselves , causes issues cannot be a consideration. If leaving the resulting supply to rot , as has been the advise, is not going to eliminate the problem, then we are all facing an ongoing uncertainty. We need to move away from mainstream agriculture as a source.
More thought must be put into ways of sourcing a suitable, uncontaminated, supply of essential (to us) plant based organic material to increase soil carbon and humus. Fertility may not be a consideration as it can be found within a good soil, naturally, or sourced from poultry manures where bedding material is not an input. Green manures, grown on-site , are one method. The 'mowing' of plot surrounds, the growing or gathering of bulky materials, such as comfrey, hogweed etc thence composted, another. Woodchip is freely available, but takes several years to rot down. Biochar, or simply badly burnt woody material all helps.

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