Author Topic: Crop rotation  (Read 3265 times)

captainhastings

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Crop rotation
« on: July 30, 2013, 21:40:44 »
I know you are not meant to plant a crop in the same place next year. But because I only started a couple of months ago I plonked stuff in as I went with out any plan.
One thing I did manage was to keep all my winter veg up one end like broccoli, sprouts etc. Up the other I have early spuds, runners and peas all which will be gone in the next month or two. So I will have an end free which I want to dig over tidy for next spring for my first earlies which I guess are the first things to go in. Then as the spuds are lifted next year I can follow with winter veg then the following year swap ends. So basically is it the end of the world if I have spuds in the same place next year as one off.
I plan also to run my rows across in nice tidy lines next year and get more organised

ancellsfarmer

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2013, 22:08:25 »
Unless your plot was "resting" when you took it over, you'll not know what preceeded. Its not the most important consideration in my view. I would be more concerned with eradicating perennial weeds, getting some FYM on, and digging roughly to let the winter break it down, especially if heavy ground. Then keep off it! ,
This will give a ready to work tilth for early sowing in,March if warm enough.Another area could be prepared for garlic/onions/shallots for a early planting, perhaps also for broad beansThats 2 areas.
A third contains your winter veg which problably will be there until May. Follow on with main crop seeding
A fourth area can be tidied and mulched wiTH compost for a salad area next spring. A row of cloches would complement.I use old window casements, collectable from any double glazer for nix. The trick is to get 10 pair the same size!(any colour frame)
This time next year move the plots around so as not to grow the same crops on the same bit. There are many sites giving the "correct sequence2 BUT IVE NEVER HAD A FAILURE THAT I COULD PUT DOWN TO NEGLECTING THE ROTATION.
Freelance cultivator qualified within the University of Life.

captainhastings

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2013, 23:00:44 »
Thank you for the reply that was very informative and gives me plenty to go on.
Weeds are a priority especially the couch grass areas . I bucket every strand I get and put in the compost bins

ancellsfarmer

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2013, 23:24:04 »
Thank you for the reply that was very informative and gives me plenty to go on.
Weeds are a priority especially the couch grass areas . I bucket every strand I get and put in the compost bins
`
I fear that you wont get rid of it by that route, it wants drying and burning or boiling in oil....its a pregnant dog. Do not be tempted to rotovate while you have any at all. There is not many ways to treat it. It used to be possible to spray it with dalapon but thats not licenced in Europe now.(Available in other 4 continents but dont smuggle it in.) Not sure about glysophate, somebody on here will know. They know everything on here....
Freelance cultivator qualified within the University of Life.

cornykev

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2013, 05:35:15 »
My first year I planted all over the place, then the second year I started my rotation.  :wave:
MAY THE CORN BE WITH YOU.

gavinjconway

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2013, 08:56:17 »
This blog article I did might be of interest to you...

http://www.seedparade.co.uk/news/sowing/crop-rotations/
Now a member of the 10 Ton club.... (over 10 ton per acre)    2013  harvested 588 Kg from 165 sq mt..      see my web blog at...  http://www.gavinconway.net

strawberry1

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2013, 10:14:51 »
get  the 30 day free trial of the garden planner at DT Brown (no strings attached), you can sort rotations out for years ahead and you get a red glow if the rotation is wrong. Brilliant useful item

re the couch grass and other perennial weeds. I agree with the above. Mine all went home and off to the council dump
« Last Edit: July 31, 2013, 10:17:05 by strawberry1 »

antipodes

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2013, 10:45:46 »
You can keep couch grass under control just dig it out consistently. Put the waste in a closed black bin bag until it rots away then add to compost.

Rotation does help minimise disease and maximise fertility but you don't have to get too carried away! I have had luck always with 4 spaces that rotate : tomatoes, followed by alliums, followed by spuds, followed by beans and peas. I must admit that I usually put brassicas in after the spuds in the same year and that seems to be OK.
2012 - Snow in February, non-stop rain till July. Blight and rot are rife. Thieving voles cause strife. But first runner beans and lots of greens. Follow an English allotment in urban France: http://roos-and-camembert.blogspot.com

Digeroo

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2013, 12:36:33 »
I put in brassicas after spuds too.   I also have squash after the earlies. 

Purple Sprouting Brocolli is the thing that throws me.  it is there for such a long time and seems to dry out the soil, so I can never decide what to put after it.





antipodes

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2013, 16:30:12 »
I put in swiss chard after mine!!! Just dug in plenty of compost first, they are doing very well so I guess it must be OK?
2012 - Snow in February, non-stop rain till July. Blight and rot are rife. Thieving voles cause strife. But first runner beans and lots of greens. Follow an English allotment in urban France: http://roos-and-camembert.blogspot.com

pigeonseed

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #10 on: August 03, 2013, 11:33:21 »
It sounds like you're doing the right thing. Crop rotation might help with disease on a small plot, and I dont see how it can hurt. But with lots of pests able to move across the site, like blight blown on the wind and insects flying, and people trampling allium white rot from plot to plot with visits and inspections... not sure whether it does much.

Maybe the most important benefit would be in finding the right sequence for feeding and soil condition. So your root crops would follow on a manured crop after a decent interval, and benefit from improved soil, without too much nitrogen causing their roots to fork. That sort of thing.

I tried an online planner, but it ran by calendar year, whereas crop years spill over. So it didnt work for me. I use an excel doc or paper.

Allotment looking great for a first year, by the way!



captainhastings

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #11 on: August 03, 2013, 15:07:37 »
Well thank you for the advice every one and thanks pigeonseed. In a little under 3 months its amazing what can grow.
I pulled my peas this week which I only planted as an after thought but I was surprised what we had off it. So next time I will make a serious attempt at them.



I have followed them with little gem lettuce plants. I can't bare to see the ground empty :)
One thing I did notice was it was a treat to dig over ground that had been worked after the battle it was the first time round.
Would love to keep the plot looking green and productive through the winter if possible
« Last Edit: August 03, 2013, 15:35:29 by captainhastings »

lottie lou

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #12 on: August 03, 2013, 15:41:44 »
Would love to keep the plot looking green and productive through the winter if possible

You could plant swiss chard/perpetual spinach or put in your winter onions or garlic.

chriscross1966

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Re: Crop rotation
« Reply #13 on: August 04, 2013, 22:35:27 »
My first year I planted all over the place, then the second year I started my rotation.  :wave:

Same here.... TBF you won't avoid your paests in such a small area anyway, and you can keep the soil in good heart with compost and FYM, chuck some BFB down when you're planting out or thinning and let it go at that...

 

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