Topic: Carrots

[philcooper]

There was a little discussion on carrots on another thread but I have had problems with carrots so here's how I solved it - others may have other ways.
After 3 almost carrotless years last year I was on to my 3rd sowing, the first 2 had failed (first too wet and cold, second too dry - my allotment is a long way from home and has no water).
The 3rd sowing succeeded, I pre greminated them by mixing seed with a small quantity of damp vermiculite (sand will also work) in a poly bag on the dining room table (or some other socially acceptable place). As soon as they started to sprout (only a few days), I sowed them in rows which I have made deeper than normal and then part filled with moist fine leaf mold (or peat or any other peat substitute) - this prevents the ground capping if dry. An early morning visit with a full can of water for 2 weeks was necessary but I now have loads of carrots in the garage.
If the weather is very wet after sowing, I think covering the row with clear polythene will help prevent them damping off. The other way is to wait until later in the year, May or early June, but then you need to make sure the are rows are kept moist (forget the pre-germination but the leaf mold is very helpful)

[Piglet]

Thanks Phil, will give pre-germinating seeds a try this year.

Piglet :)

[Garden Manager]

I too have problems growing carrots. its about the only crop I want to grow but cant.

The problem seems to be the same as phil, poor germination, and a stony soil.

I havent tried for a few years, but the last time i tried, as i said the germination was poor, and what did grow was patheticaly small by pulling time.

I have always assumed my soil was to blame, being (at the time) very stony (it is now better as a result of improvement).  I have since thought hard about ways to circumvent these problems, including growing in containers and replacing an area of stony soil with sieved material to a reasonable depth.  Neither seems entirely satisfactory.

Recently i have wondered whether to try growing a few in 'biodegradable' containers which i can then plant whole to avoid disturbing the carrot plants too much (which I know they dislike).  I was thinking toilet roll inners would be ideal for this purpose.  On the other hand now the soil is better i could try again the traditional way and see if I have more sucess.

Any thoughts on this anyone?

[tim]

Have you noticed that if you spill a pinch of seed at the end of the row, every one will germinate?

The best bunching carrots we've ever had were broadcast and lightly raked.

One thing I do do, for main varieties, is trickle potting compost along the drill after sowing. This avoids the fatal panning. And, of  course, cover immediately with fleece! = Tim

[Steve__C]

Never have problems with germination.
But something my Grandfather taught me... mix the seed with sand. The seeds are then more thinly sown, its very easy to ensure complete row is seeded and I am sure the sand does no harm in my clay soil.
When preparing my carrot bed I always throw a couple of builders bags of sharp sand onto the bed before forking over the complete bed. I do this to try to improve the drainage.

[budgiebreeder]

I do that with all my smallest seeds Steve using an old flour shaker thingy sometimes.

[Steve__C]

BB, personally only ever done it with carrots... I put sand and seed in a plastic bag, have a quick shake and then cut the corner allowing a fine line to drop down into the drill. But will try for other varieties this season. I always spend so much time thining out.

Phil, I have seen it suggested that seeds can be added to a water retaining gel. Perhaps this may help with your original germination problems where the seeds were drying out.
What about pre-germination in the gel, in the warmth, before sowing outside?  Thereby reducing the two week critical watering time that you mention.

[Mrs Ava]

I am so impatient with carrots and start pulling them when they are still tiny, altho yummy!  I am not a straight line gardener and tend rather than have a drill, more of a channel and scatter the seeds within this channel, which I cover, water and so on.  I get good germination and use thinnings as raw, next lot as babies to cook and so on.  Eventually there is plenty of space for the last to get nice and big.  This was my bestest ever year for carrots, but I had encorporated loads and loads of compost into the ground and left it very soft and removed every single stone it was practical to remove, and there were bucket fulls!  

[tim]

Can't argue with a method that works, but a general teaching is to water thoroughly before sowing - this avoids panning. = Tim

[mysticmog]

Excuse my ignorance but what's panning?

[Mrs Ava]

Mystic, I believe panning is when a crust of dry earth forms either over a newly filled seed drill or under the seeds.  Because the tilth is fine I guess, and disturbed, and full of air, it dries out rapidly and forms a crunchy layer of soil which baby seedlings cannot push through.  I get this from time to time in the greenhouse when I am being lazy - not good!

[tim]

My idea - for what it's worth, is that watering after cakes the surface, as said, and blocks emergence = Tim

[john_miller]

 Wouldn't covering a seedling carrot with impermable plastic encourage damping off? Commercially, carrot germination is greatly enhanced by use of permable products, such as fleece, to prevent dessication but allow some air movement.
 I would like to point out that none of the water retaining gels I have seen are cleared for food crops. Additionally, research has shown that not only do these compounds retain moisture but they also absorb nutrients, rendering them unobtainable by the plants. If you do use these products some extra fertiliser may be neccessary.
 Richard:- I foresee problems. You still have the potential to produce a damaged tap root end, resulting in forking.
 

[The gardener]

Isn't it strange how we all have our different methods of growing, yet we all seem to get there in the end.

My method is;

Contrary to public belief, it is said ( by some experts) never sow in manured ground .............I do!

But!!!! not before I have done a little preparation;

When sowing  I firstly drive my spade in to the ground as far as I can go, then iI move it back & forth to form a 'Vee' trench .

Then I trickle in some old compost (growbags etc) providing it has not contained anything that was diseased.

I then water this in and sow my seed very very thinly on top, then cover the seed with a little more compost.

In most years I do not have to water the seed again ,  before they have germinated.

If the season dictates it I will spray some water on the row/s as necessary till they germinate.

Then the key to it all ......I never water them again choose what the weather, enough comes from the skies,.....if the ground has been well prepared there will be enough moisture in the ground for them to survive.

Let them find there own water I say....... in this way I get a bit of length on them, particularly on a dry season.

Some years I will thin them out other years I don't.

The only difference I find by doing this is I am more susceptable to ' carrot fly'.

If I do thin them out I jet in a mixture of jeyes/armillatox  to wash the soil in  around the roots.

.....now both these products are unavailable I will have to find another smelly product...... any suggestions?...Mint?

Incidently I cover my beds with fleece from day1

So now we have another method.......the mind boggles.

ps I grow my 'barrel' ones in more or less the same way, i.e. no watering.

[Garden Manager]

To Gardener:

Sounds a good idea using old compost. Might have heard it somewhere else before. Might try it. The compost would certainly get the seedlings off to a good start, rather than growing straight into soil.

To John Miller.

I see your point. It was a concern when I first had the idea. thought perhaps if i wasnt carefull the carrots would grow to the bottom of the container before I could plant out.

I think i will be trying the compost in the drill idea first and see how I get on.

Thanks.

[tim]

To THE Gardener - a great spiel, but don't see much different in it from what, in general principle, most do? And if you cover with fleece from day 1, how come you have a fly problem?

Any ideas on broadcast sowing?  = Tim

PS Phil - too cold, too wet? 40deg on the thermometer at least?

PPS Armillatox has never not been available - just sold now as a patio cleaner!!

[Steve__C]

The Gardener,

You mention that Jeyes is not available... that is not totally true.

Under EU rules Jeyes must not be sold as a garden sterilizer. All reference to gardening use has had to be removed from its labelling. For that reason gardening outlets will probably not stock it, but it is still available as a household product.

Whether there will be sufficient call for the product in the future to justify its production only time will tell.

I suggest any horticultural clubs/allotment trading huts that have previously decanted Jeyes into bottles may now be selling their last few. May be worth a visit, remember they may also have other illegal substances on their shelves that may be useful in your garden. But beware, as it will be illegal to possess them after April.

[Mrs Ava]

On the Jeyes fluid, went to sainsburys last week and it was on the shelf next to the pine disinfectant cleaners - top shelf.  Didn't pick it up to see what the label said, I will just out of curiosity next visit.....and I will stock up, just in case!

[tim]

- before you do, EJ, read my note above.
I panicked in May and bought a £50 thing of Armillatox - which immediately became a 'cleaner'! = Tim

[The gardener]

I didn't say I had a problem with 'carrot fly' I was only inferring at one time I tended to get it at the thinning stage.

Like the others here who live & learn, I now use 'fleece' which strangely enough doesnt always eliminate it, but the ammounts if any, is generally neglgible.

Another thought on 'Carrot fly'

It is said that it only flies some 15-18" above ground then how does it get into my 3ft high barrels? (or did till I learned my lesson)

I think this theory is based on 'lab' conditions i.e. no wind.

What if they are carried by the wind, as I am sure they are.

One only need look at a dandelion seed floating in the breeze to realise this must apply to most insect life.

Hence the need for total cover not an 18" wall as prescribed by some experts.

What do you think?

Re-broadcasting seed! I see few problems with this apart from thinning and weeding.

On the weeding note I tend to refrain from weeding as I consider this to be similar to thinning,i.e. signals are sent out to the carrot fly on the next plot ;D

The other thing is when the carrot tops really get going they do tend to keep weeds in there place, or out if you want to think that way.