Author Topic: Couch Grass  (Read 6676 times)

manicscousers

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #20 on: May 05, 2010, 16:34:17 »
drown the mare's tail,  maggie, you can use the liquid as a spray, can't remember what it has in it but it's good  ;D

Robert_Brenchley

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #21 on: May 05, 2010, 17:58:27 »
Supposedly. I'm not sure anything can finally kill it though. It grows from a root under the Red-Hot Throne itself, where it's fertilised by the devil's farts. You can't kill that.

Unwashed

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #22 on: May 05, 2010, 18:55:48 »
I've never had a problem with couch rotting down on the compost heap - just make a big effort to get the soil off.  Fortunately I've never had mares tail to deal with.
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Emagggie

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #23 on: May 05, 2010, 21:26:47 »
Supposedly. I'm not sure anything can finally kill it though. It grows from a root under the Red-Hot Throne itself, where it's fertilised by the devil's farts. You can't kill that.
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Emagggie

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #24 on: May 05, 2010, 21:30:50 »
John-who-backs-on-to-me says he composts couch grass quite succesfully, but maybe I have a good deal more to get rid of than he.
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katynewbie

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #25 on: May 05, 2010, 21:36:32 »
I am stacking all my couch, grot and weeds and have a pile about 3 feet high at the moment. I plan to cover it, put cardboard on top plus manure and grow squashes though membrane on top with the sides etc all covered up. Hope to leave it for a couple of years and then have great stuff left. Fingers crossed that it works!

fi

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #26 on: May 05, 2010, 23:05:13 »
i tok my allotment on 7 years ago and it was basically couchgrass, brambles aand hadnt been cultivated for yonkers. i dont use chemicals and in my experiience if you have enough land and time cover for a min of 1 year.(no couch grass survives just the odd dock and nettle root. all the weeds rotted down make excellent compost.) whwere i needed togrow produce double dug put weeds under plasic, manure over top and then plastic. planted squashes through plastic, the soil in this bed now excellent. i wouldnt put couch grass in my compost but once rotted in water for a few months its ok to go in the compost. i now use manure over cardboard for weedy areas as plastic not eco and carpets not recommended any more. garden organic have good advice for clearing ground of weeds.

Emagggie

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #27 on: May 06, 2010, 17:03:20 »
drown the mare's tail,  maggie, you can use the liquid as a spray, can't remember what it has in it but it's good  ;D
Mal I did that once....never, ever again :o The stench of the festering bucket was vile to say the least. I can only assume the spray would be used as a weapon to win a war with. ;D
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manicscousers

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #28 on: May 06, 2010, 17:05:09 »
hahaha, I thought Ray's comfrey bucket was smelly enough  ;D

lincsyokel2

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #29 on: May 06, 2010, 17:54:07 »
Mares Tails doesnt pull out, its just lulling you into a false sense of security. The roots of Mare Tails poke down out through the roof of hell..........the only way to get rid of it is bruising it and then a good dose of Gylphosphate.
Does Glyphosate really do the job? I thought nothing on this earth (or in hell ;D) would get rid of it. I've lived with it for 5 years now, just digging it out when it appears.

Mares tails have an armoured outside, you have to bruise the stuff and damage it to allow ingress of the weedkiller.
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kippers garden

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #30 on: May 08, 2010, 07:52:06 »
When i took over my plot 5 years ago i put all my weeds (couch grass nettles etc) that i dug up in it's own compost heap which i covered and left until this winter.  It made the most wonerful compost after 5 years with no sign of roots etc left. 

I have recently taken on another plot that is covered in weeds and i have already started to fill another compost heap just for all those nasty weeds.
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Emagggie

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #31 on: May 09, 2010, 23:25:26 »
I now have one covered heap and 12 black sacks around the edge of my plot. Not much more to dig now. I will look forward to my compost (eventually ;D)
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Mme Muck

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #32 on: May 10, 2010, 16:12:16 »
I inherited a dolly tub on my plot that's been a handy receptacle for couch,  It's now full with that and rainwater - a pretty smelly slimy mixture.  I read somewhere the liquid will make a good feed.  Might get round to siphoning it off soon and trying on the spuds.

Vinlander

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #33 on: May 11, 2010, 01:16:50 »
I tried the drowning method for both couch and bindweed and it worked, but it took months, stinking, and some of the roots that floated up got enough oxygen to stay alive.

On the other hand a 20cm thick pile of couch and bindweed only took a few weeks to dry out because I put it on a wire mesh and angled a shabby bit of ply over it to keep the rain off.

Roots so dead they are crunchy and crumbly - and no smell.

A similar pile on mesh with lots of claggy soil in it dried in just over a month despite having no cover - the rain washed most of the soil through and soon afterwards it dried right out.

I damped some of it and put it in a bag to see if it would revive like dracula in blood but it stayed 100% dead. Perfectly safe in the compost heap now...

If you have a lot of perennial weeds make a chicken wire hammock to dry them on. If you can't get enough soil out it will be extra heavy so make the hammock from old wire fencing.
With a microholding you always get too much or bugger-all. (I'm fed up calling it an allotment garden - it just encourages the tidy-police).

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Emagggie

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #34 on: May 11, 2010, 22:09:37 »
If only I had room Vinlander. Sounds like the quickest solution.
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Vinlander

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Re: Couch Grass
« Reply #35 on: May 16, 2010, 01:15:14 »
If only I had room Vinlander. Sounds like the quickest solution.

If you're short of space try and find an old mesh vegetable rack, then you can dry 3 times as much in the same space...

If you can extract more than that in a fortnight (depending on the weather) then you'll have to stack it until you can clear the rack.

But when you put the top 150mm layer from the stack onto the rack you'll find it dries quicker than the fresh stuff did, and the next 150mm will also be nearly dry when you get to that and so on.

As long as you clear the stack before October then you're fine... just don't forget it and leave it through winter to regenerate itself!

What amazes me is the stupidity of trying to burn it before it's properly dry - choking white smoke.

What's nearly as stupid is burning it when it is properly dry  - wasting all that fertility at that point when it could safely go on the heap.
With a microholding you always get too much or bugger-all. (I'm fed up calling it an allotment garden - it just encourages the tidy-police).

The simple/complex split is more & more important: Simple fertilisers Poor, complex ones Good. Simple (old) poisons predictable, others (new) the opposite.

 

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