Topic: cleaning glass on a wood burner

[1066]

Hi

What do people use to clean the glass on the inside of their wood burners? I've been using windowlene (the cream stuff) and a wet sponge. It works ok, but not brilliantly. I should also add it doesn't get cleaned that often  :o   but it would be nice if I found something that worked better so maybe I'd keep it clean more often and for longer  ::)

Thanks 1066

[tonybloke]

Idealy you should never have to clean the glass. (once you start, it's a never ending job, like leg-shaving)
Any moisture you get behind the glass will signal the demise of the glass due to condensation / rust build - up. Any scratches, however microscopic will be there forever and can only get worse
The glass should self-clean when the fire gets hot. Glass in a woodburner door usually gets dirty from burning wood which hasn't been properly dried and seasoned.
Our wood-burner is about 15 yr old, and the glass has never been cleaned, yet you can still see the fire through it clearly.
(My dad was the 'parkray' rep for the eastern region for many yrs, and the most common issue was with scratched or broken glass caused by cleaning) ;)

[1066]

thanks Tony - I did wonder!! I think last years wood wasn't that well seasoned and hopefully this years will be better. And I'm more than happy to lay off the cleaning  :P  ;D

[Alimo]

Hi,

I use the stovax stove glass cleaner - which you can get from woodburner stove shops.  Despite our stove having the clear air system which theoretically keeps the glass very clear, I do like to have the glass very clear.  ;D  I like to see the flames.

Anyway - this is the one the shop recommended and is brilliant!

regards, Alison

[lushy86]

I used to use some of the ash to clean the glass, rub it in with some scrunched up newspaper then use a clean bit to get it off  :)

Lushy x

[1066]

Thanks for the replies! As I'm a cheapskate I'll give the ash a go 1st and then if that doesn't work maybe I'll try the stovax, and if not try and ignore it  ;D

[rbull]

Unless you have perfect firewood, which few people can afford, the glass inevitably gets a bit dirty with tar on the inside.  I use a square of kitchen paper moistened and dipped in the ash from the tray, so that you get a very gentle grinding paste.  You may need to do it more than once, between fires, but it does work.  depending on the type of logs we have, and how hot we keep the fire, I need to clean the glass on average every 3 weeks.  No sign of any scratches yet after 3 years.

An unusual problem we had at the start of this season was that the fire didn't seem to draw well during lighting.  The cause wasn't a blocked chimney, but the aperture behind the air control spinner partially blocked with fluff.  It didn't look much, but clearing it out made a terrific difference.

[1066]

rbull, thanks for your info as well. Another vote for using the ash then!
I think you are right about the wood - it's difficult to buy and then store enough wood that is well seasoned (dry), I'm considering buying another load now, and then storing it for next winter, which hopefully by then would be dryer. If not I need to find another supplier!

[tim]

Yes, yes & yes!

'Airwash' systems? Eyewash! With the greatest respect for Parkray. We have 2 Charnwoods &, as said, unless you burn them hot - which we can't afford  & don't need - they soot up immediately. This is even on fabricated solid fuels.

They do, of course, say to get the fire really hot before dulling down, to get the system working.

We use Hob Brite cleaner.

[1066]

Thanks Tim, could also be described as Hogswash!
And nice to see you back on-line   :)  and how are the ribs?

[tim]

B++++y painful still - after 4 weeks.

And no teeth - yet!

[1066]

My OH has broken a few and they do take a while, he said he could feel them moving around! YUK!

[ipt8]

My mom and dad always used newspaper. If it does not wipe off easily you need to burn the fire hot.
If you are using wood and the glass is getting black the wood is probably softwood/conifer, or not seasoned enough. Once cut into useable sized logs it should take about 12 months to dry /season enough to burn.
Try and avoid tree surgeons who have just lopped a tree, cut it into logs, and are selling green, or unseasoned logs.
If you can find a supplier that has the logs stored to season them that is best. If they are more expensive, that should be offset by the extra heat given out and the need to keep the stove burning lower.
Ask for  a mix of hardwood logs, preferably ash, beech and oak. Birch is OK but burns quicker, but it does season more quickly.
A good sized pick up load of logs is about £60 to £80 and probably would weigh a ton when green or three quarters of a ton when dry. They cant sell to you by weight unless they use a weighbridge.
Sorry to ramble on but I work in Forestry.

[tonybloke]

or, visit your local waste transfer station, they usually have a load of construction wood
(4"x2", 2"x2", etc) to give away!!

[1066]

thanks for your info ipt8 - happy to read your ramblings!
The wood I get is by and large hardwood and they reckon it is seasoned, but I find it's not really so (I don't think its been sitting around for 12 months more like 6 to 9 max?!) So I reckon I need to either find another supplier or store it ourselves for longer.

Tony - have finsihed renovations we've been using the odds and end for kindling - but a good tip nonetheless  :)