Author Topic: Forcing Narcissus and other bulbs  (Read 2184 times)

Moggle

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Forcing Narcissus and other bulbs
« on: October 03, 2004, 15:29:03 »
Bought my spring bulbs yesterday, and got a pack of free narcissus with the crocuses. How would I go about forcing the narcissus indoors:

1. Is it too early to force them?
2. I know they need some cold, is fridge or freezer best? And how long for?
3. I have standard peat-based compost or John Innes type. Which would be best for the bulbs?      Should I add some vermiculite to either?

Thanks all
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john_miller

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Re:Forcing Narcissus and other bulbs
« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2004, 16:14:27 »
1) No, the difference is that you bring them into heat earlier compared to outdoor ones.
2) Definitely don't allow to freeze, 3-5C is best for at least 3 months (give late flowering cultivars 1-2 weeks longer)
3) Either can be used but with peat based don't overwater and with John Innes don't let get to dry.

Moggle

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Re:Forcing Narcissus and other bulbs
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2004, 11:57:21 »
Thanks John, I was hoping that they wouldn't need so long in the cold.

I might start them in the fridge in November, and bring them out after christmas, when I get back from my month long holiday.

I was thinking that I just had to bung the bare bulbs in the fridge, but from what I read on the net, they need to be planted in compost then into the fridge  ::)
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john_miller

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Re:Forcing Narcissus and other bulbs
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2004, 00:27:31 »
I wasn't quite sure from your first post if you realised that the bulbs have to root out during the vernalisation period. It can get a bit messy in a fridge-put them in a bag to reduce spills! One alternative you may want to try is planting them in pots but leaving them outside in a shady area to help maintain the critical temperature. You don't specify when you are going on holiday but, if you don't anticipate it being cold enough to freeze the whole pot solid while you are gone, just leave them outside. During the meteorlogical winter time a frost free shed will suffice (assuming your winters aren't too warm).
FYI- the bulbs will have set next years buds prior to dormancy last spring. The bulbs root out in the autumn and then have a phenological response to warming temperatures to induce vegetative growth. The vernalisation period actually sets the length of the stem that supports the bud/flower. If the bulb does not get enough cold units then the stem will be short (after 4 weeks vernalisation a tulip will produce a stem about 5cm high)- the 3 month vernalisation period is quite critical. In my opinion a full size tulip flower on top of a short stem looks quite obscene (my college did a demonstration every year for us students to view). Late flowering cvs., which tend to be taller than earlier cvs. need the extra cold units to help produce the extra stem length. Botanically they are not simply late flowering, they need more cold units to induce taller stems. Eek, another essay! Sorry.    

 

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