Author Topic: Fence Building (Read 8023 times)

Davy · « **on:** August 15, 2005, 09:49:00 »

Any tips for putting up a decent fence?

Gratefully received.

dotCompost · « **Reply #1 on:** August 15, 2005, 13:54:21 »

You don't say where you live, nor what type of fence would be suitable for your surroundings. Try this BBC site. Let us know how you get on.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/design/projects/fencing_fence.shtml

PS I would get a builder to do this work for me. It's not as easy as it looks, esp when you have keyboard fingers not builders hands LOL

DocAlgae · « **Reply #2 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:07:59 »

Ooo eck, you're in for a hard job! :o Ours is four foot tall (1.5cm chicken wire, with a foot buried in the direction of attack!). We had to put straining wire along the top as the fence went a bit baggy. The worst job by far is putting the posts in. Eventually we found the best way to be using a crowbar or similar to dig about a foot down before sledgehammering the posts into place. It's very, very hard work! And best to do it when the ground's a bit softer (i.e. not soaking wet, but not baked hard either). We used 6 foot round posts about two metres apart. Oh, and make sure you paint wood preservative on the posts to stop them rotting in a couple of years (you'd hate to do it all again!)

Took us eight weekends in total I think. That's a 25m by 10m plot. Never again - next time we hire a builder...

daisymay · « **Reply #3 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:39:49 »

I'm with dotcompost - getting someone else to do it is the only way it would result in a "decent fence!"

we had a fence down one side of the garden last year - 3 ft wire fence with concrete posts, was just short of £500 (our garden is 80ft long).

TEL · « **Reply #4 on:** August 23, 2005, 13:03:28 »

Hi Davy
If the fence is for your plot use old pallets.if you go round most industrial sites they will let you have them as they have to pay to get rid of them.
If its for your house use concrete posts & panels

dotCompost · « **Reply #5 on:** August 23, 2005, 13:06:25 »

Davy, I agree with Tel's advice, esp the concrete posts. Don't look so pretty, but you'll be glad you didn't use wood when it all comes crashing down in a storm. Please let us know how you get on...

Davy · « **Reply #6 on:** August 24, 2005, 13:52:16 »

Have now managed the 4 corner posts and two gate posts but have a long way to go have obtained some massive fence posts (previously loft rafters) from skips. Have to concrete in the other posts but will over the winter. Taking time off next week to have some messing about.

spacehopper · « **Reply #7 on:** August 25, 2005, 23:18:49 »

My Brother and my Dad are going to do our fence for us. They are going to use telegraph poles (cut down) as strainers. Apparently you can get them for a fiver. The in between fence posts are eight feet tall, they cost £2.65 each. They said something about wires, to put up before he mesh ??? I am hoping to learn more about it when the fence actually goes up, they know a heck of a lot more about it than I do. They are going to use the square mesh type fence called rylock, we'll get it from our local agricultural supplier.

A good tool to have if you can borrow one is a post borer. Its like a giant corkscrew that makes a hole in he ground for the posts. We helped our friends put some posts in last week and it was invaluable - saves a lot of hitting with the sledgehammer.

jennym · « **Reply #8 on:** August 25, 2005, 23:59:28 »

Watch it with those telegraph poles!
You may be interested to know that there could be the potential for leaching of copper, chrome, arsenic compounds used in the original preservative treatment. These substances are carcinogenic and genotoxic.
Leaching into the environment can take place when the wood is burned, or immersed in certain types of salt water, or used as stakes. It appears that the greatest risk is from burning this wood - it is VERY high risk indeed.
I believe there was an assessment carried out by DEFRA in 2004, try to get a copy and read it.

spacehopper · « **Reply #9 on:** August 26, 2005, 00:09:28 »

:o

Thanks Jenny, I will ost definitely do that.

ipt8 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 26, 2005, 19:03:14 »

What is the purpose of the fence?
Is it to keep rabbits out as I guess that is the most likely?

ipt8 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 27, 2005, 22:34:01 »

The copper chrome arsenic mentioned is not from creosoted posts but from Tanalith posts - usually green in colour. The danger is breathing the fumes when the wood is burnt, or at the treatment plants handling the timber before it has dried.
Railway sleepers are 99% of the time creosoted. However creosote is carcogenic. It can weep in hot weather and can kill plants.
Creosote is no longer available to the general public in this country and I believe neither are creosoted railway sleepers.
Tanalith posts are much cleaner - just dont burn em.
Hope thats of interest.
PS: I am still interested what the fence is to keep in or out and then I can probably offer some useful advice....
:)

GardenerBates · « **Reply #12 on:** August 30, 2005, 20:28:39 »

i'm not very good at making things, thats why i need a big strong man to help me with mine.

alias i find wood is always the best start to building a fence.

norman bates · « **Reply #13 on:** August 30, 2005, 20:30:28 »

i would like the barbed wire sort... it keeps the bloody cats out ;)

ACE · « **Reply #14 on:** September 15, 2005, 11:06:54 »

When you are burying or concreting your wooden posts in the ground put the bottom end in a plastic bag with a drop of creocote which is the new safer creosote. I t makes them less suseptible to rotting.

campanula · « **Reply #15 on:** September 19, 2005, 00:11:57 »

Don't bother with anything except a good thin spade - a post hole shovel if you can beg or borrow one, dig a decent hole for either 3x3 or 4x4 tanalised timber posts( at least 60cm deep), whack them in with a bit of hardcore and back fill the hole. You need a post every 3m or so and you can either use panels or attach close board to a couple of arris rails. It is a nice job to do, you can take your time about it and you feel really satisfied when you have done it. The posts will last for at least 20 years and you do not need to add any preservative if you make sure that you buy tanalised stuff.

supersprout · « **Reply #16 on:** September 23, 2005, 18:56:09 »

any special tips for a chicken fence? ::)

spacehopper · « **Reply #17 on:** September 24, 2005, 14:18:10 »

We've got some chicken wire from Wilkinsons. Can't remember how much it was but it was very good value.

supersprout · « **Reply #18 on:** September 24, 2005, 16:43:20 »

thank you, will start pricing chicken wire! how high does it need to be so the chickens don't fly over it and Mr Fox doesn't leap over with one bound? and how deep in the ground does it need to go? hints and tips welcome again ... ::) ;D

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Author Topic: Fence Building (Read 8023 times)