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• Seed depth:
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Growing

• pH range:
• Growing soil temperature:
• Spacing in beds:
• Watering:
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• Nutrient requirements: N=xxxx; P=xxxx, K=xxxx
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Potato

The article was copied from the T & M (seed merchants) web site. Public domain.

CHITTING (Sprouting) PROCESS

It is very important that your tubers are kept in a frost free area. Remove them immediately from their nets, spread them out in a cool, well ventilated place prior to sprouting (called 'chitting'). All seed potatoes, particularly Earliest and Second Earlies, can benefit from 'chitting' and the formation of strong 'chits' over several weeks gives faster growth when planted out and heavier crops. Use seed trays, shallow boxes or empty egg cartons to 'chit' your potatoes.You will notice that the immature 'chits' are all at one end (called the rose end). Place the rose end upwards. Keep in a cool, but frost free place in natural light. Sturdy 'chits' will form which should attain 25mm (1 in.) in length.

PLANTING

Potatoes grow best in rich soil containing plenty of well rotted manure or compost (do not use fresh compost to minimise keeled slug problems) and do not lime the soil to minimise scab blemishes on developing tubers. Planting times are not critical and are dependant on weather, soil conditions and regional variations but below is a general guide. Use our specially blended, high potash Potato Fertiliser when planting.

POTATO FERTILISER

Concerning application of the 3kg bag of pelleted, high potash fertiliser. This should be sufficient to plant 60 tubers, using 50g (just under 2oz) per tuber. Its application is a matter of persona] choice, and to a certain extent depends on the condition of your soil. You can incorporate 50g in each individual planting hole (as with any fertiliser it should not be in immediate contact with the tuber to avoid scorching), or you can incorporate 25g when planting and another 25g when first earthing up. If you plant in a trench instead of dibbing or using a trowel, then you can scatter the pellets along the trench or leave until you earth up.

AFTERCARE

Most importantly protect emerging shoots from any frosts by carefully drawing soil over the shoots. Frost will blacken the shoots and delay production severely. First and Second Earlies particularly require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when tubers are starting to form. Earth up regularly as the plants develop.

HARVESTING

Start to harvest First Earlies as 'new potatoes' when plants commence flowering, although not all varieties freely flower or flower over an extended period. Therefore, a more reliable method is the number of weeks from date of planting. As a guideline, allow 10 weeks from planting for First Earlies, 13 weeks for Second Earlies, 15 weeks for Early Maincrops and 20 weeks for Late Maincrops. Lifting times will also depend on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period. Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and haulms (stems) have withered, to allow the skins to set.

SECOND CROPPING POTATOES

Given the UK climate, we would recommend planting our 2nd Cropping Potatoes in the first week of August. The absolute latest we would recommend planting tubers outside is by the end of August. If planting in a protected environment (e.g. in a polytunnel or greenhouse) planting can be delayed by a week or so at the most but tubers must be planted by the end of the first week of September. Planting any later than this is likely to produce disappointing results. If planting is to be delayed from receipt of the tubers, ensure the tubers are stored in the refrigerator at no lower than 4°C until planting. There is no need to pre-chit the potatoes - this will happen quite naturally after planting. 'Ping-pong ball' sized tubers should be ready for harvesting approximately 10 to II weeks after planting. Tubers can be harvested as required, with the others being left in the ground. Cut down the haulms (stems) with secateurs to just above soil level as the leaves wither/yellow or if they show signs of blight and protect from frost. We suggest covering with a thick layer of straw and/or sacking. These can then be lifted at Christmas time.The only potential problem with leaving them in the ground for this length of time is that they would be more susceptible to blight and pest attack (e.g. slugs, wireworm) - the longer they are in the ground, the more possibility there is of being exposed to these pests and diseases.

STORING

For storing varieties, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin before storing in hessian sacks or in paper in a dark, cool but frost free place. Avoid polythene as potatoes will 'sweat' and rot.

Growing potatoes in pots/containers

The following article is copied from A4A and is supplied by Sanders89

I thought I would do an idiots guide to how I grow very early potatoes in pots, plenty of people have talked about growing them this way so it may be of use to some. Note: This is the way I do it, maybe not the right way but it works for me! I will include links to photos so you can see what I am on about.

First of all you need to buy some seed potatoes. There are plenty in the garden centres/shops at the moment but don’t wait to long. Select a first early variety. This then needs to be set up to “chit”. I use a combination of egg boxes or plastic trays. Try and find firm seed potatoes that do not show any signs of damage or disease.

These are placed in a frost free, cool, light spot and left to sprout or “chit” for a few weeks. When the chits are a centimetre or so in length they are ready for planting:

Be careful not to allow the sprouts to get too long as they may break when planted. One or two chits per seed spud is fine.

Next I get the pots ready. I use large plastic pots that will last years. Make sure they have good drainage holes in the bottom, add more with a drill if required, and then add a layer of well rotted manure to the bottom:

Next add a thin layer of multi purpose compost to sit the seed potatoes one. (I do not sit the seed potatoes directly on the maure as this can burn the new roots, others do sit them direct on the manure and seem happy, personal choice I guess). In these sized pots I put two seed potatoes per pot. Sit the potato with the chits facing upwards:

The final step is to just cover the seed potatoes with a layer of compost taking care not to damage the chits. Then make sure you label the pot and give a little water depending on how moist the compost is:

Keep the pots in a warm, frost free greenhouse, earthing up as the sprouts break the surface of the compost until you reach the tops of the pots. Keep the compost moist to begin with, especially until the first shoots break the surface.

Move the pots outside after frosts have finished and keep well watered. Feed with a general purpose fertilize if you wish and as harvest approaches root around with your hand in the compost to check the size of the tubers. Start to harvest when they are the half the size of hens eggs. Do not try to store the tubers for more than a day or two as they quickly loose their exceptional flavour.

As the season progresses I will post more pictures so you can see progress. I hope some one finds this of use.

There is no beating home grown new potatoes cooked straight from the ground. They knock “Jersey Royals” into a cocked hat on taste.

Also growing in pots/compost removes many of the problems such as slugs/eel worm and they are very easy to clean, just run the new spuds under a tap and pop them in a pan or water with a sprig of mint to cook……yumm!

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