When taking hardwood cuttings try rubbing the buds that will be underground off, thorns permitting. This should prevent shoots growing from around the base. Leave two or three buds above for initial training.
The first shoots are vulnerable to snapping off with wind or some other mishap so probably better to let more than one shoot grow for the first year, reducing to one subsequently.
A cordon is probably easiest as one shoot grows, is extended each year and all side shoots are pruned to spurs located on the main stem or cordon. It may be an idea to summer prune the side shoots, perhaps to 8 inches (20cms), reducing the shoots back to inch stubs or spurs in winter, You can prune out poorly placed spurs as you do the winter prune. A columnar form may be more useful than an angled one.
A standard is more difficult as you need to get a shoot to grow to some height, say two and a half to three feet before forming a head. This form of training requires young shoots on the main leg to be removed as the season progresses commensurate with leaving enough growth to sustain the plant. Once the required height is reached, using summer and winter pruning try to get it to produce shoots for head forming. A long term project that will need a strong stake to support the plant.
Perhaps a combination of the two. Begin with cordon training and once the cordon is high enough prune out all the lower spurs to form a leg using higher spurs to form a head.
Hope this helps. I try to do espalier training on my gooseberry plants but I have to say they are more like flat faced bushes most of the time.
