Moving a Plum Tree.

[Emagggie]

I planted a Mirabelle Plum tree 3 years ago. Last year it was heaving with fruit (although the tree was fairly small) This year it has been overshadowed by a nearby fig tree and a pear tree and not produced much fruit at all and I think it would do better a bit further along the wall. Do youngish trees transplant easily does anyone know, or would it be easier to buy another?

[grawrc]

I've moved a few trees successfully although not specifically a mirabelle.

Prepare the new hole in advance, chop back the top growth and the roots as much as you absolutely need to shift it, put straight into the new hole, stake well supporting it on all sides since it won't be able to support itself until the root system regrows and water like b***ery! You could try using some mycorrizal fungi on the roots to help them establish faster.

Probably easier done when it's dormant (December-February) but I did shift a rowan tree once in July and it still lives to tell the tale.

[Emagggie]

Thanks Anne. I didn't know I could cut the roots! I will wait until the winter though. I can prep the hole well in advance then.Not heard of mycorrizal fungi though. I'll do some homework on that.

[grawrc]

Not all the roots!!! It's just the roots spread so much. Keep as much of the root system as possible but in practical terms it's impossible to keep it all - you'd need to dig a vast hole to fit them all in. Just treat it like root pruning. With rhododendrons  I do one side of the bush and wait for new root growth to start - the small fibrous ones they need to take in nutrients - then chop through the other side and lift the plant.

If you google for mycorrizal or Rootgrow you'll get lots of hits.

[Emagggie]

  . It's ok Anne I had realised that. Thanks again.

[:(]

Ive moved a small plum 3 times now in about 3 years which is probaly why its still small but its alive and well in its new permanent place.

[cleo]

Three years is not very old so if you are careful I see no reason not to move it

[Robert_Brenchley]

A small plum can be moved easily, but do it once the leaves are off so it has time to re-establish itself before next summer. Are you sure the problem is the shade not the cold weather last spring?

[goodlife]

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Are you sure the problem is the shade not the cold weather last spring?

yes and not only that...you said your tree was "heaving with fruit" last year...often when this happens tree doesn't have the energy to put on good show following year...these tree become biennial croppers...having gap year after heavy fruiting year..unfortunately if this start to happen it is difficult to break the cycle anymore..

[grawrc]

...except in my experience Mirabelle plums heave with plums every year!!

[goodlife]

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...except in my experience Mirabelle plums heave with plums every year!!

..ohh..lucky you...I've got couple of these biennial croppers myself...and I've tried for years to balance the cropping..but without success...my damson is worst..one year it is like covered with purple 'planket'...solid with fruit and then next year..almost nothing..and this year is one of those.. ..but I'm not complaining I've got plenty of other fruit..can't be greedy..

[jennym]

Emaggie, I've moved plum trees, and if you are going to do any cutting of roots to encourage a fibrous root system do it now, but only do half. There was a discussion on this subject last year, and I copy here what I put then, hope it helps:

The distance from the trunk - a circle approx 4 ft dia should be fine. You may have to cut down a little deeper than a spade's depth, and try to cut underneath too. Some draw a special cutting wire under the tree. The best time is probably about now, because the tree is active and will grow fibrous roots more quickly, but you must  irrigate well. You can also dig out a shallow trench whilst cutting and put rich but light soil into the trench, so the fibrous roots develop into this. Then, when you come to transplant or re-prune, you dig outside this circular trench. Another way some do it, is to completely dig up the tree in winter and prune the larger roots by hand, then replant the tree. This has the advantage in that you can see where the fibrous feeder roots exist and avoid cutting them.
This root pruning should only be carried out on young trees, mature ones can suffer badly, because there's a risk of cutting off all the fibrous growth at the end of the main roots, and a mature tree wouldnt be able to draw up enough water for its needs.

[Emagggie]

Thankyou all, I shall move it with confidence now. (but later on )